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    • Day 1: arrival in Christchurch
    • Day 1: dinner at Hislops Cafe
    • Day 2 : Whale Watch Kaikoura
    • Day 2: Maurice’s Maori Tours Kaikoura
    • Day 2: Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments
    • Day 2: White Morph Restaurant
    • Day 3: Cafe Encounter
    • Day 3: Kaikoura lookouts
    • Day 3: Pegasus Bay Winery
    • Day 3: The Alpine Pacific Triangle
    • Day 3: Hanmer Springs Spa & thermal pools
    • Day 4: Powerhouse Cafe
    • Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting
    • Day 4: Mountain Biking without the Biking
    • Day 4: Hanmer Springs thermal pools
    • Day 5: Akaroa Jet Adventure
    • Day 5: Heritage Hanmer Springs
    • Day 5: An accidental drive through Christchurch
    • Day 6: Attempting to swim with Dolphins
    • Day 6: Sea Kayaking with Pohatu Adventures
    • Day 6: Dinner at Ma Maison Restaurant & Bar
    • Day 7: Akaroa Criterion Motel
    • Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight
    • Day 7: The Giant Jersey & the Medieval Mosaic
    • Day 7: A Quick Stop in Geraldine
    • Day 7: Earth & Sky Tour
    • Day 8: Glacier Explorers
    • Day 8: Tekapo Springs
    • Day 9: Peppers Bluewater Resort
    • Day 9: The Church of the Good Shepherd
    • Day 9: The Inland Scenic Route
    • Looking back on my time in Canterbury
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Browsing Tags Akaroa harbour

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Day 7: Akaroa Criterion Motel

April 17, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

After a hair-raising jetboat ride and a very filling salmon lunch at The Trading Rooms, I was ready to have somewhere to put my feet up when I arrived at the Akaroa Criterion Motel. Luckily, it was a great place to do so!

I met the owners, David and Gabrielle, when I checked in. They were both very friendly and helpful — and they also let me know that while there were other guests in the hotel that night, I would be the only guest the following night. This was because the hotel was about to close for six weeks to undertake major renovations.

When I saw my room, I was surprised that the hotel needed renovations. It was very light and airy and everything seemed to be in good order. Importantly, as I was on the second floor, the room had a great view over the tops of the waterfront houses to Akaroa Harbour beyond. All twelve of the rooms in the hotel offer these views, as the first floor is only used for covered parking.

The room itself was a studio apartment, consisting of a kitchen, bathroom, bed, lounge area, and balcony. I really enjoyed the lounge area because I could sit looking out on the harbour with the balcony door open, listening to birds squawking and water slowly lapping at the shore. It was definitely a significant improvement on my desk at home!

Fairly soon after I checked in, Gabrielle arrived with my continental breakfast for the next morning so I could have it at my leisure rather than trying to rush to squeeze it in before my dolphin swim. It was a healthy meal of cornflakes, sliced peaches, and toast with orange juice — filling, but light enough to not cause any problems with seasickness!

I had no trouble at all sleeping at the hotel — Akaroa itself is quiet enough, there wasn’t any noise at all around Rue Jolie, where the Criterion Motel is located. The bed was very comfortable and, after having been a bit cold in Hanmer Springs, I was happy to be able to set the heater to high to keep the room nice and toasty warm.

I found the hotel to be very well situated within Akaroa. It’s on the side of Akaroa near Daly’s Wharf, which is roughly a five-minute walk from the side of town with the Main Wharf that houses Black Cat Cruises and the Blue Pearl Centre. It was only a one-block walk to the waterfront, which offered great photo opportunities at all times of day.

By far, the most memorable event from my stay at the hotel was arriving home after dinner at Ma Maison. There were three fire trucks parked out the front of the hotel — luckily I’d been warned this didn’t actually mean there was a fire — and there was a steady stream of firefighters carrying all sorts of furniture downstairs to the large storage container in the parking lot. They were quite efficient and left reasonably early…and importantly, they left all my furniture where it belonged!

I had a very comfortable stay at the Akaroa Criterion Motel and would love to go back to see the results of their renovations…and to spend a few more evenings with my feet up while watching the sun set over Akaroa Harbour!

The Akaroa Criterion Motel is located at 75 Rue Jolie, Akaroa. They will be reopening on 8 June 2012. Rooms can be booked through Wotif.com.

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Day 6: Sea Kayaking with Pohatu Adventures

April 16, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

 

Today was all about seeing the local wildlife — this morning saw me taking a trip out into the harbour to swim with dolphins, and this afternoon saw me heading to Pohatu Marine Reserve in Flea Bay to see white-flippered little penguins. I was pretty excited about this, having only seen a few penguins in their natural habitat before.

The trip across to Flea Bay involved navigating a high pass on a gravel road. The views from the top across to both Flea Bay and Akaroa were stunning, as seems to be the norm for NZ! We didn’t have time on the way over to take photos, but on the way back I got to snap some beautiful shots looking down on Akaroa Harbour from above.

Once we arrived, I met the couple I would be kayaking with and my guide, Kevin. Because I was on my own, I would be in Kevin’s boat, which worked out well because I couldn’t use the left pedal in the kayak due to the position it put my knee in. Plus, he didn’t mind occasionally padding while I tried to snap a few photos!

Our trip started with paddling up the northern side of the bay, where the penguins make their home. The owners of the land here have put out plenty of artificial nests as part of a program to get the penguins breeding; apparently when they first put them out, they didn’t put enough and all the penguins started fighting over them! A very interesting thing about these nests is that they aren’t along the shoreline as you might expect; the penguins travel as far up as a copse of trees on top of a hill over 200m high, and they can travel as far as 700m inland as well.

Soon we were spotting more penguins than I ever thought I’d see. Hidden in amongst the rocks were quite a few groups of 2-4 penguins, peering out at us and wondering what to make of the giant yellow things outside their lairs. Occasionally one of the pied shags preening themselves on the rocks would stop, disdainfully look down at us, have a poo, and continue grooming.

Before we reached the end of the bay, we got to paddle a little way into a cave dug out of the soft volcanic rock by the relentless battering from the sea. I felt so small in comparison to what seemed like a giant cave. I couldn’t marvel for too long though because soon we were having to back out to make sure the swell didn’t push us too far into the cave.

Kevin thought it would be a good idea to say hi to the Pacific and I agreed, so we continued padding until we were well and truly in the waves of the ocean. For the second time today, I was treated to the view of the Banks Peninsula looking in. There were islands that had broken off the mainland and many larger caves than the one we had just been in.

The hardest work of the tour definitely came when we were paddling across the bay. Because Kevin wanted to make sure the other kayak didn’t get too far behind, he had tied a tow rope to it. I really noticed the weight when my out-of-shape arms were burning from pushing the paddle through the water! The crossing didn’t take all that long though and soon we were facing back into the bay and letting the waves carry us in.

There is a great divide between the animals in Flea Bay. As I said, the penguins live on the northern side — all but 70 of the 1063 mating pairs that lived there during the last census (as a side note, the census takes place every 4 years; the next one will be at the end of the year and they are looking for people to help count). The southern side is mostly inhabited by New Zealand fur seals. As we reached the area that Kevin said was the colony, we could only see one or two seals. I was thinking that it was a pretty small colony until we got around a rocky outcrop and could see them everywhere! Pups were splashing around in rock pools and adorably trying to scramble up rocks towards their mothers, while the adults lounged on the rocks looking as bored as possible.

Eventually Kevin pried us away from the seals by pointing out a line of white in the water. That line of white was not sea foam…it was a line of around 80 white flippered penguins, having what he described as their “happy hour.” In the late afternoon, they often gather on the water to socialise before night falls. I was amazed. I knew that they had said there were over 1000 mating pairs, but to see even 80 at one time was so cool. We made our way over to them, careful not to get too close or to make too much noise, and just watched as they floated this way and that, eventually dividing up into three distinct groups that floated off in different directions. What a way to end our trip!

Pohatu Adventures operates many tours around Flea Bay, including 1- and 2-day trips. Their kayaking tours run in the afternoon when weather permits and evening penguin tours are also available.

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Day 6: Attempting to swim with Dolphins

April 16, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

I woke up excited. In only a few hours, I would be swimming with the world’s smallest and most endangered ocean dolphin — the Hector’s dolphin. Even the prospect of having to swim in 13-degree water didn’t daunt me…well, at least not too much.

Obviously, since the water in Akaroa Harbour couldn’t be considered warm even in mid-summer, Black Cat Cruises is prepared for cold water. In the briefing room, we were handed 5mm thick wetsuits. It could have been worse — apparently in mid-winter, everyone wears warm clothing and a drysuit. Ack!

The day we made our way in was very similar to yesterday’s — in a word, perfect. The water wasn’t quite the glass it was at 7am, but it was close. There was hardly any wind and not a cloud in the sky, which I hoped meant the bay would be reasonably smooth. Also, very importantly, there were no severe seasickness warnings due to swell like in Kaikoura. I still had motion sickness wristbands on just in case!

We were still well within the harbour when we came across the first pod of dolphins. Unlike the dusky dolphins of Kaikoura, which we saw in a pod of 200, Hector’s dolphins live in much smaller pods that are very changeable. The dolphins do not have an allegiance to any one pod so they come and go as they please. This pod, however, wasn’t very interested in us. They briefly investigated the boat and then were on their way, possibly to feed.

The next pod seemed much more excited to see us. We sped the boat up a bit to see if the six of them would follow, and sure enough, they started surfing our bow wave. Then, as quickly as they had appeared, they were gone, diving down into the cloudy water of the harbour.

Oh well, we thought. Laura, our very friendly and knowledgeable guide, thought that if we went just outside the harbour we might find a pod that usually hangs out there so we pointed the boat towards the Pacific. I was actually very happy that we went for a look out there because it was an area that we didn’t explore on the Akaroa Jet yesterday.

Outside of the harbour, the Banks Peninsula is even more rugged and spectacular than within it. The basalt rocks from volcanic eruptions millions of years ago drop off in sheer cliffs to the ocean below. Within the rocks, we could see layers that marked the different eruptions.

Sadly, we didn’t find any dolphins there, so we headed back into the harbour hoping that the dolphins would be a bit more playful this time. Things were looking promising when we came upon a very large pod that had at least ten dolphins in it…but when they got closer, we found that many of those dolphins were actually calves that were still feeding from their mothers. The NZ government requires that the dolphins are left alone if they have calves that are under a certain age, so this meant swimming was a no-go.

The calves were very cute — and so tiny, given how small a fully grown Hector’s dolphin is — and it was great to be able to see them because apparently sightings are reasonably rare. They made up for all the interest that the other dolphins hadn’t shown in us, because they followed us for quite a while. This meant that we got quite a bit of time to watch them, but any other pods we found would also be a no-go because the calves were still with us.

I knew we’d failed when Laura got out the hot chocolate, usually reserved for shivering swimmers, and offered some to me. She nodded sadly when I asked if this meant we weren’t going to swim with dolphins today. I was very sad that it hadn’t happened, but at the same time, I knew it was a risk when we went out. The dolphins are completely wild, so nothing can be guaranteed.

We did get a few consolation prizes (aside from getting to watch so many dolphins from onboard). A little head peeked out of the water and was identified as a little penguin, and we spotted a fur seal on the rocks despite his best attempts to blend in with his surroundings.

So was I sad that I didn’t get to actually swim with the dolphins? Definitely. Do I want to come back and have another try? Absolutely. However, I still got to enjoy an amazing day on Akaroa Harbour and I was lucky enough to see a lot of wildlife that can only be seen in a few small areas around the world.

Black Cat Cruises are based in the blue building on the Akaroa main wharf. In the summer they offer up to 16 cruises per day, in shoulder season they offer up to 8 cruises per day, and in the winter they offer one cruise per day. If you do not see any dolphins on your tour, you receive an $80 refund; if you see dolphins but do not get to swim with them (as happened to me), you get a $50 refund.  

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Day 5: Akaroa Jet Adventure

April 15, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

I thought that the Thrillseekers jetboat ride at the end of my rafting trip was good preparation for my Akaroa Jet ride in the harbour today. I knew they’d tamed it down for us, but I didn’t realise quite how much!

Once everyone turned up for the tour, which took a little while, we were pretty quickly out on the sparkling harbour. We only stopped to pick up spray jackets/life jackets and to have a quick safety briefing. No words were minced here; it was understood that if something happens and you need to evacuate, you go over the side, and if you feel ill, then you should be sick over the side, etc. The real briefing was about the 360 degree spins at the end of the tour. Being in the front, I would be subjected to the most Gs and therefore had to wear a seatbelt (no one else except the driver, Brett, did). He reckoned I’d be able to handle it though!

Then we were off on a spectacularly scenic and incredibly quick tour of Akaroa Harbour. We skidded across the waves with the roar of the twin V8 jets in our ears, drowning out all but the loudest squeals of delight. Occasionally we crossed a wake, lurching through the troughs and copping a refreshing spray in our faces in the process. The high hills of the volcanic crater that collapsed to form the harbour rose all around us.

In what seemed like a span of minutes, we were nearly at the harbour’s mouth. A few sharp left turns later, we were underneath Nikau Palm Gully, which Brett explained is the most southern grove of that sort of palm in the world.

Our next stop was definitely a highlight for me — the caves. In particular, Cathedral Cave. The top of this cave towered many hundreds of meters above our heads. There were many visible horizontal lines that crossed the entire rock face; these lines represented the lava flows from various different volcanic eruptions. Many seabirds had made use of these lines — which often actually jutted out from the area above them — and had made their nests within the rock face. Many of those birds stared down at us as we pulled in and marvelled.

Just to the left of Cathedral Cave were a number of smaller caves. We sat at the entrance staring into the black hole of one when suddenly Brett hit the gas and we were suddenly well inside the cave. We couldn’t stay too long because of the swell, but it was very cool and something that not a lot of other tours on the harbour would be small enough to be able to do. Plus, we got treated to just how loud jetboat engines can be when the sound of us powering out of the cave echoed all around us.

We visited various other spots around the harbour on the way back, including the salmon farms, the paua farm (where they harvest the shell and pearls that take up to two years to grow), Tikao Bay (where there was an ammunition factory in WWII), and Lushington Bay (where tradies used to gather and get drunk, hence the name). In between stops, we got to admire the stunning beauty of the harbour and of course as we jerkily navigated the reasonably calm seas.

Once we left Lushington Bay, it was time for our spins. Brett started us out with a “Nanna” spin, slowing down before he did the proper turn. Many of the passengers squealed out in delight (myself included). The turns became progressively more intense as we got closer to Akaroa. The boat seemed to go from high speed to nothing in a split second and we were thrown all over the seats, first one way, then another. I felt my back crack on a number of occasions and decided I should mention this to my physio as a possible treatment, rather than just standard back manipulation. While the spins were incredibly fun, I’m very glad I had a seatbelt!

All in all, the Akaroa Jet Adventure is well worth taking, especially if you’re not planning on getting out into the harbour otherwise. The scenery is outstanding — I won’t say second to none because it seems like that could describe most of New Zealand — and there are quite a few interesting places to visit. Plus, there’s nothing quite as exhilarating as being out on a boat going full speed ahead!

Akaroa Jet Adventure is located at 61B Beach Road in Akaroa. Two tours depart daily when numbers permit.

I’m sorry about the quality of photos in this post. Apparently my waterproof camera leaked while rafting and the inside of the lens decided to fog up at a rather inopportune moment today.

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