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    • Day 3: Cafe Encounter
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    • Day 3: Pegasus Bay Winery
    • Day 3: The Alpine Pacific Triangle
    • Day 3: Hanmer Springs Spa & thermal pools
    • Day 4: Powerhouse Cafe
    • Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting
    • Day 4: Mountain Biking without the Biking
    • Day 4: Hanmer Springs thermal pools
    • Day 5: Akaroa Jet Adventure
    • Day 5: Heritage Hanmer Springs
    • Day 5: An accidental drive through Christchurch
    • Day 6: Attempting to swim with Dolphins
    • Day 6: Sea Kayaking with Pohatu Adventures
    • Day 6: Dinner at Ma Maison Restaurant & Bar
    • Day 7: Akaroa Criterion Motel
    • Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight
    • Day 7: The Giant Jersey & the Medieval Mosaic
    • Day 7: A Quick Stop in Geraldine
    • Day 7: Earth & Sky Tour
    • Day 8: Glacier Explorers
    • Day 8: Tekapo Springs
    • Day 9: Peppers Bluewater Resort
    • Day 9: The Church of the Good Shepherd
    • Day 9: The Inland Scenic Route
    • Looking back on my time in Canterbury
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A Tiki tour of Canterbury

July 10, 2012 · Wot Blog

One of my goals during my trip around Canterbury was to keep the world as up-to-date as possible on everything I was doing. No mountain range or plate of food was left unphotographed, and Instagram allowed me to share these photos instantly so I didn’t have to wait until I got back to my hotel to transfer the photos from my camera.

When I got back to Australia, I checked out Blurb.com with the intention of making a photo book for my family in time for Christmas. As I browsed the website, I had an idea. Why not use all of my Instagram photos in a book? They truly tell the tale of my Tiki tour, of all the emotions I was feeling as I traveled from Kaikoura to Tekapo (and to all the stops in between).

One emotion that I felt throughout my trip was happiness. Not only was I getting a dream trip around an amazing country, but I was helping to show that Canterbury deserves a starring role in any South Island itinerary. Yes, the earthquakes and aftershocks have laid Christchurch low, but it and the Canterbury region as a whole are still very much open for business. With this book, I felt I had an opportunity to help even more. Not only would I be able to reach more people with the message that they should visit Canterbury, but I could also donate all proceeds from the book to the Christchurch Earthquake Appeal.

You can preview my book below. Please consider purchasing it as a book (AU $31.99 and up) or an ebook (AU $6.54). Every purchase will go towards helping the people of Christchurch rebuild their city.

A Tiki Tour of Canterbury by Kristin Repsher | Make Your Own Book
-43.532054 172.636225
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Looking back on my time in Canterbury

May 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s hard to put into words my thoughts on the nine days I spent in Canterbury, New Zealand. Never before have I had such a jam-packed travel schedule where I’ve been able to experience so much about a location in a short period of time. And if you hadn’t guessed it from my other blog posts — I loved it. Yes, it was so busy that sometimes I didn’t have a chance to think, but it was one of the best trips I’ve ever had.

My itinerary made me truly appreciate the diversity of Canterbury. It’s not just Christchurch and the Canterbury Plains. It’s much larger than that, stretching from the blue Pacific to the golden hills of the Mackenzie Basin. Everywhere you look there are mountains, some snowcapped, some that men dream about conquering. It’s such a scenic place that I took over 3600 photos in the span of nine days!

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Pegasus Bay Winery

Canterbury offers such a wide array of experiences as well. The adventurous will find plenty to sate their daredevil appetites –perhaps with a rafting trip down the Waiau followed by a bungee jump above it. However, there’s plenty for those looking for a slightly calmer time as well — it’d be hard to pass on wine tasting in the Waipara followed by a relaxing soak in the hot pools at Hanmer Springs.

Speaking of diversity, I tried so many different foods while in Canterbury that my stomach must have thought it had died and gone to heaven. Mexican, French, Asian, steak, lamb, seafood, fudge…you name it, I probably ate it. It was all delicious, and I’m going to struggle trying to find any meal better than the duck a l’orange I had in Akaroa.

And who can forget the wildlife? In just over a week, I was lucky enough to see three sperm whales, a pod of 200 dusky dolphins, many swooping albatrosses (and some other sea birds too), some fighting eels, many small pods of very endangered Hector’s dolphins, baby New Zealand fur seals frolicking in rock pools, eighty little penguins having a happy hour in the middle of Flea Bay, and a sheep in a hi-vis vest. Had I stayed longer in Mount Cook, I might have been lucky enough to see a cheeky kea — although perhaps only seeing a stained glass version was a bit safer, given their destructive curiosity!

None of these experiences would have been the same — or in some cases, they wouldn’t have been possible at all — without the people of Canterbury. I met so many interesting, friendly, and helpful people along the way — both fellow travellers and locals. Maurice’s Maori Tour in Kaikoura was truly a standout in this respect, because I felt like I learned more about Maori culture and the local people in a few hours than I’d ever known before. Elsewhere in Canterbury, I got a chance to sit down and chat with hotel owners, tour guides, and restaurant chefs about anything and everything New Zealand (with the obligatory questions about my braced knee thrown in). I heard so many interesting stories and got some great tips to help me along as well. With so many people to chat to, I never felt alone.

Which place had the best combination of all of these things? Which was my absolute favourite? It’s such a hard choice…but if I had to pick one, and only one, I would choose Tekapo. It’s such a spectacularly scenic place, but to top it off, some of the experiences I had there were mind-boggling. I’d been admiring mountains on every leg of my trip, but on the Grand Traverse flight, I got to look down on them, watching as the snow blew off their peaks. And everywhere I went, I’d been gazing at the stars, loving how many I could see compared to home, but in Tekapo, I got to see them in a whole new way — from the observatory. In no way did I ever think that I would see Saturn — rings, moons, and all — while I was in NZ!

That said, every place I visited — Kaikoura, the Waipara, Hanmer Springs, Akaroa, Geraldine, Tekapo, and Mount Cook — had its own charm. I genuinely enjoyed visiting all of them, and I often found it very difficult to leave. If I ever got the chance, I would pay each and every place a return visit. I’d love to go back and do some of the things that couldn’t possibly fit into my very full itinerary, but I’d also be happy trying some of the same things again (especially dolphin swimming — hopefully I’d actually be able to get into the water if I went again!).

So, even though it all seems like a faraway dream — something that must have happened to another person, even though I have the pictures and writing to prove it was me — it was such a good dream. It reaffirmed how much I love New Zealand and proved to me that Canterbury should always have a starring place on a South Island itinerary.

I’d like to thank Wotif.com and Canterbury Tourism for all the hard work they put into planning my Canterbury Tiki Tour. They helped me with any questions I may have had along the way and were generally just awesome! 

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Day 9: The Inland Scenic Route

May 3, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

When I reached Geraldine on my drive back to Christchurch, I was struck by the change from a few days before. When I saw the town on my way to Tekapo, it was through a dull drizzle that reminded me very much of England. The town was still pretty, but the weather very much inspired me to stay inside. This day was the complete opposite — I wanted to get out of my car and wander past the old buildings, tasting various goodies from shops as I went. However, this wasn’t to be because I had a flight to catch, so I continued on through the town.

On the other side of town, I was presented with a choice — do I take State Highway 1 back to Christchurch, or do I take the Inland Scenic Route? After a bit of poking around on my GPS (which refused to actually find a GPS signal), I found that the scenic route was 30km longer in distance but supposedly only 9 minutes longer in time. Both routes would get me into Christchurch with plenty of time for my flight, so I was sold. The Inland Scenic Route it was.

What a great choice that was! It was great driving; there were very few cars going in either direction, and I only encountered one campervan that I needed to pass (who kindly pulled over before I had to overtake). The speed limit was the same as the highway and the only real slowdown I hit was a patch of roadworks that stretched for a few kilometers. Otherwise, the main slowdowns came from me stopping on the side of the road to take photos (which I had to limit so I didn’t end up being late).

I made two really interesting stops along the way. The first was before the turnoffs for Mount Hutt Village and Methven, and I stopped because I thought it would be a good opportunity to take photos of the mountains with some orange and red trees in front of them. I thought the campervan in front of me was stopping for the same reason, but it turned out that they’d spotted something that I hadn’t: a couple deer. These weren’t just any deer either — they were deer with some of the most impressive antlers I’ve seen in a long time. One had at least seven points!

My other stop was at Rakaia Gorge, where the waters of the Rakaia River flow underneath the Rakaia Gorge Bridge. As I drove downhill towards the bridge, there was a turnoff where I could stand and watch the river stretching before me. It reminded me very much of Hokitika Gorge on the West Coast in that it had a pearly baby blue colour that just doesn’t seem natural. It also had a very different appearance to most other rivers in Canterbury (and even from its own appearance further downstream) because it wasn’t braided — that is, running in very narrow streams across a vast area of rocky riverbed.

I tried to make a few other stops around Rakaia Gorge in search of a perfect viewpoint of the river, its bridge, and the mountains behind. My stop in a small carpark just after crossing the bridge was successful, and it gave me an amazing up-close view. I even saw the Discovery Jet, a jetboat ride that takes you through the gorge itself. My other stop, in the carpark for Discovery Jet where I hoped to get a view from river-level, was not so successful because the carpark was full of water. I was worried about taking my little car through it, so I turned around and continued towards Christchurch.

Soon, I found myself back in the outskirts of the city, filling up my car with petrol and preparing to return it before flying home. I was happy though, because by taking the Inland Scenic Route, I’d made the most of my last day in this beautiful country.

The Inland Scenic Route runs from Christchurch to Geraldine via Mount Hutt Village. From Christchurch, take SH73 to Darfield and then SH77 towards Mount Hutt. From Geraldine, take SH79 north and then turn left onto Geraldine-Arundel Drive, following the signs for the Inland Scenic Route.

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Day 5: Akaroa Jet Adventure

April 15, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

I thought that the Thrillseekers jetboat ride at the end of my rafting trip was good preparation for my Akaroa Jet ride in the harbour today. I knew they’d tamed it down for us, but I didn’t realise quite how much!

Once everyone turned up for the tour, which took a little while, we were pretty quickly out on the sparkling harbour. We only stopped to pick up spray jackets/life jackets and to have a quick safety briefing. No words were minced here; it was understood that if something happens and you need to evacuate, you go over the side, and if you feel ill, then you should be sick over the side, etc. The real briefing was about the 360 degree spins at the end of the tour. Being in the front, I would be subjected to the most Gs and therefore had to wear a seatbelt (no one else except the driver, Brett, did). He reckoned I’d be able to handle it though!

Then we were off on a spectacularly scenic and incredibly quick tour of Akaroa Harbour. We skidded across the waves with the roar of the twin V8 jets in our ears, drowning out all but the loudest squeals of delight. Occasionally we crossed a wake, lurching through the troughs and copping a refreshing spray in our faces in the process. The high hills of the volcanic crater that collapsed to form the harbour rose all around us.

In what seemed like a span of minutes, we were nearly at the harbour’s mouth. A few sharp left turns later, we were underneath Nikau Palm Gully, which Brett explained is the most southern grove of that sort of palm in the world.

Our next stop was definitely a highlight for me — the caves. In particular, Cathedral Cave. The top of this cave towered many hundreds of meters above our heads. There were many visible horizontal lines that crossed the entire rock face; these lines represented the lava flows from various different volcanic eruptions. Many seabirds had made use of these lines — which often actually jutted out from the area above them — and had made their nests within the rock face. Many of those birds stared down at us as we pulled in and marvelled.

Just to the left of Cathedral Cave were a number of smaller caves. We sat at the entrance staring into the black hole of one when suddenly Brett hit the gas and we were suddenly well inside the cave. We couldn’t stay too long because of the swell, but it was very cool and something that not a lot of other tours on the harbour would be small enough to be able to do. Plus, we got treated to just how loud jetboat engines can be when the sound of us powering out of the cave echoed all around us.

We visited various other spots around the harbour on the way back, including the salmon farms, the paua farm (where they harvest the shell and pearls that take up to two years to grow), Tikao Bay (where there was an ammunition factory in WWII), and Lushington Bay (where tradies used to gather and get drunk, hence the name). In between stops, we got to admire the stunning beauty of the harbour and of course as we jerkily navigated the reasonably calm seas.

Once we left Lushington Bay, it was time for our spins. Brett started us out with a “Nanna” spin, slowing down before he did the proper turn. Many of the passengers squealed out in delight (myself included). The turns became progressively more intense as we got closer to Akaroa. The boat seemed to go from high speed to nothing in a split second and we were thrown all over the seats, first one way, then another. I felt my back crack on a number of occasions and decided I should mention this to my physio as a possible treatment, rather than just standard back manipulation. While the spins were incredibly fun, I’m very glad I had a seatbelt!

All in all, the Akaroa Jet Adventure is well worth taking, especially if you’re not planning on getting out into the harbour otherwise. The scenery is outstanding — I won’t say second to none because it seems like that could describe most of New Zealand — and there are quite a few interesting places to visit. Plus, there’s nothing quite as exhilarating as being out on a boat going full speed ahead!

Akaroa Jet Adventure is located at 61B Beach Road in Akaroa. Two tours depart daily when numbers permit.

I’m sorry about the quality of photos in this post. Apparently my waterproof camera leaked while rafting and the inside of the lens decided to fog up at a rather inopportune moment today.

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Day 4: Hanmer Springs thermal pools

April 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s not a real day in Hanmer Springs until you’ve visited the hot pools. That was true for my visit; I was in town for two days and I went to the pools twice. I was very much looking forward to my second visit after jumping into the ice cold Waiau River that morning, plus, I wanted to be able to explore the complex a bit more in the daylight to see what it had to offer (seeing as I’d only made it to two of the pools on my previous visit).

Surprisingly, even though there were a lot more people at the pools than the previous evening, the changing rooms were less crowded. This was probably a temporary anomaly, but I made the most of it and quickly headed back to the pools. The only problem was my bag; I was pretty comfortable just leaving it poolside but would have preferred to lock it up so I wasn’t constantly checking on it. However, the lockers required $2 coins, which I didn’t have, so I put my bag on a seat with everyone else’s bags near the pool I had chosen.

I tried out a variety of different pools, from the rock pools to the aquatherapy pools to the hexagonal pools. I think the aquatherapy pools were my favourite because they were sort of like hot tubs, only with hot spring water. The hexagonal pools were 38-40C, which was a bit too much to handle after a while. I much preferred the 35-36C range in many of the other pools! The rock pools were fun because they are like small streams that lead between larger pools; the only problem is that a lot of couples seem to mistake this for privacy so it can occasionally lead to awkward moments when you appear around the corner.

It’s interesting to see how different some destinations can be between day and night. In the case of Hanmer Springs’ thermal pools, the difference is marked. By 7 or 8pm, the pools are still open but many of the kids, whose screams from the waterslides carry across the pools complex by day, have been put to bed. It seems a much less frantic place than during the day, and I found it to be much more calming.

There are definitely up sides to going during the day. For one, while the water is so nice to slip into on a cold night, it’s much easier to get out of the pools during the day when there is still a bit of heat in the air! This can be applied to the waterslides as well. My two-day pass actually gave me access to the waterslides, but every time I considered it, I decided against it as soon as I got out of the pool. Walking to the top of the tower and standing in line while that cold just didn’t seem like much fun!

One useful thing to note — which I unfortunately didn’t – is that you need to get a return pass if you want to leave the pools, and I believe this is only a 10 minute pass to let you get things out of your car. I mistakenly thought that because they gave me a wrist band, I could come and go as I pleased during the day! Luckily they let me in without the return pass one evening just so I could take a few photos with my non-waterproof camera.

If you’re going to Hanmer Springs, it’s very likely that you have a visit to the hot springs in mind. Do I recommend going to the springs during the day or night? Well, if you go in summer, you’ll have to go during the day because the sun is up so late. At other times of year, I don’t recommend one over the other — I think that you should get a two-day pass and try them both for yourself!

Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa is located at 42 Amuri Avenue, Hanmer Springs. The pools are open from 10am-9pm daily; the spa is open from 10am-7pm daily.

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Day 4: Mountain Biking without the Biking

April 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

As I’ve mentioned in a few other entries, I’m traveling around New Zealand with a not-quite-100% knee. I broke my tibial plateau on a trip earlier in the year and spent eight weeks on crutches, but I’m now able to do most activities with just a bit of a limp. However, mountain biking is not one of those activities!

This afternoon, I was booked in for an hour-long mountain bike rental from Hanmer Adventures. Their shopfront is right in thecenter of town, so all I had to do was walk across the street from my hotel, fill out a form, and pick up a bike and helmet. I figured biking at all was going to be a problem, much less biking on bumpy trails, so I took the bike to a road with no traffic and tested my ability to pedal. There was no success there — my knee brace doesn’t bend far enough so I could only do a strange half-pedal, half-hang-my-leg-in-the-air action. As expected, within ten minutes I’d returned the bike.

The important thing that came with the bike, though, was the mountain bike trail map. This map pointed out picnic areas managed by the DOC (the Department of Conservation, which does a great job of maintaining facilities and natural areas), walking tracks, and mountain bike trails. So, instead of biking one of the trails in Hanmer Forest, I chose to drive to the closest car park (a 5-minute drive down Jollie’s Pass Road) and take a short walk instead.

There was a constant stream of bikes heading past the carpark when I arrived. The poor guys riding them were all huffing and puffing and seemed to be getting quite the workout!

After snapping a few photos, I headed towards the Woodland Walk, signposted as a 20-minute roundtrip. It was very flat and perfect for any fitness level, including mine. It definitely took me more than the signposted twenty minutes, but that’s because I ambled along, taking in the colours and sounds of the forest. It didn’t seem quite as full of birdsong as the forest in the Puhi Puhi Valley near Kaikoura, but I still really enjoyed stopping and listening to the sounds of the woodland. It was uninterrupted by any man-made noises, with the exception of the occasional clicking of gears and grinding of gravel on gravel as a mountain biker passed by on the path below.

Eventually, the path opened out into a large open area surrounded by the mountains. A few families with bicycles were here taking a breather and tossing balls around. It was here that my knee started aching a bit, but I wasn’t too concerned about having to turn around. I’d done what I came for; I got to see a bit of Hanmer Forest and a bit of the mountains, and I probably paid a bit more attention to it because I wasn’t concentrating on getting my bike up the next hill!

Biking is a very popular activity in Hanmer and bikes can be rented from a number of places. Hanmer Adventures, where I got my bike, is at 20 Conical Hill Road (just across from the Heritage Hotel). 

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Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting

April 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

I went to sleep in Hanmer Springs and woke up in Scotland. As I drove out of town to the Waiau Bridge, where Thrillseekers Rafting is based, the clouds hung low over the mountain peaks and there was a chill in the air. The smaller mountains near the road were coated in a greenish velvet. All around me, I felt like there were scenes right out of a drive through Glencoe in the Scottish Highlands…although no drive of mine through Glencoe has ever ended in a whitewater rafting trip!

Thrillseekers is based in a wooden cabin high above the brilliantly blue Waiau River. It was in the loft of this cabin that we met Graham, a matter-of-fact Kiwi who has been rafting this river for eight years, and were given all of the essential rafting gear.

Unlike many rafting trips I’ve done, there was no long drive to the starting point. “How will we get back?” queried one fellow rafter. The answer was simple: the jetboat. Cool!

Once everyone hauled the raft down the gravel path to the river, we were off. I could tell that we weren’t in for any serious rapids by the fact that we didn’t have any paddling lessons once we’d launched; on other trips we’ve been required to demonstrate that we can somewhat competently paddle before heading downstream.

In our 1 hour, 15 minute trip we hit a few patches of rough water, but I would say that none of them were bigger than a grade 2 rapid. It was fun when Graham steered us spot-on into a rapid and we got soaked, but there was never any real fear that we were going to capsize (at least, until he suggested on one straight section that we all get up and play tag in the boat).

Near the beginning of the trip, we tied up to some rocks after the guys in the boat volunteered to jump off a small cliff. Their reactions were hilarious — pretty much as soon as they hit the water, they started swimming back to the raft to try to get out of the 8C temperatures as quick as possible! This didn’t deter me when Graham suggested we jump into a calm patch of the river; I was the first person overboard. Graham captured the moment when I landed in the water perfectly. The look on my face says “why did I just do that” mixed with “OH DEAR LORD THAT’S COLD!” I’m very glad I did jump in though, because it made all of the subsequent splashing from the river seem mild, whereas it had previously been a bit like a slap in the face.

Speaking of getting splashed, we got to see the Thrillseekers jetboat up close and personal when it sped by us on a tour; luckily we were in a reasonably narrow part of the river so when he sprayed us it didn’t knock anyone out of the raft (which Graham said had happened before).

I found the most interesting part of the trip to be the scenery and Graham’s description of the changing ways of the Waiau River. He often pointed out areas where the river had decided to completely change course and areas that had evidence of the last flood (of which they get 6 or 7 a year after heavy rains in the mountains). Most interestingly, he pointed out Dog’s Head Rock, which is where a certain rather notorious fault line runs.a reasonably narrow part of the river so when he sprayed us it didn’t knock anyone out of the raft (which Graham said had happened before).

After about 7.5km of rafting, we pulled up onto a bank, deflated the raft, and waited for the jetboat. The trip back was, needless to say, much quicker than the trip down. We didn’t do any 360 spins because we didn’t want to lose the raft overboard, but we still got to take turns at speed and, at one point, had rock walls whizzing past our heads at a much closer proximity than I expected!

Overall, I had an enjoyable trip with Thrillseekers Rafting, but I’d be hesitant to call it “thrillseeking.” I know this is the brand and many of the other activities, like bungy jumping and jetboating, are definitely thrillseeking, but the rafting was pretty tame. As Graham told us, that changes markedly when the river levels are much higher, but I still think that people looking for the big rapids may have to find a different river. That said, it was the perfect trip for me because I’m still nursing a healing knee and I was still able to get out in the raft and have some fun. I think it would be the perfect trip for anyone looking to do something adventurous without being worried that it will be too scary.

Thrillseekers is based at the Waiau River Bridge near the turnoff from Highway 7 to Hanmer Springs. They have another office for bookings at 14 Conical Hill Road in Hanmer Springs. They also offer bungy jumping, jetboating, paintball, and quad biking.

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Day 3: The Alpine Pacific Triangle

April 13, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

All along the roads from Christchurch to Kaikoura and Hanmer Springs, there are signs stating you are driving on the “Alpine Pacific Triangle,” which has “hot pools, vineyards, whale watching, and dolphins.” I knew this must be describing Kaikoura, Hanmer Springs, and Waipara, but still, every time I saw a sign I wondered…what exactly is the Alpine Pacific Triangle and why had I never heard of it before? Well, it turns out the Triangle is exactly what I guessed — the three towns mentioned above and the scenic roads that link them. These roads are State Highway 1 between Waipara and Kaikoura, SH70 between Kaikoura and Hanmer Springs, and SH7 between Hanmer and Waipara. Each leg of the triangle is a comfortable drive (at most around 2.5 hours).

The towns in the triangle are very different in what they have to offer, but they are all memorable in their own way. Waipara has an array of outstanding vineyards, so you can hop from cellar door to cellar door trying out the best that Canterbury has to offer. Hanmer Springs is all about luxury and relaxation — enjoying the alpine views while lounging in a hot pool or getting a well-earned massage. In Kaikoura, the mountains are much more rugged and the experiences are a lot more adventurous, including whale watching and dolphin swimming. I found all of these towns to be stunning visually and often had trouble pulling myself away from the good views, but the same can be said for the roads linking them. I think this is what the Alpine Pacific Triangle was truly created for — the driving. This is nothing like hopping on the Pacific Highway for a drive down to the Gold Coast. The driving is fun (and I can only imagine how much more fun it would be on a motorcycle) and spectacular scenic.   On this trip, I’ve done each direction on two legs of the Triangle (but missed the Kaikoura-Hanmer Springs link on SH70). Each time, I spent a lot of time in disbelief that a place could be so naturally beautiful in so many different ways. On the Kaikoura coast, rocks sprayed out into the pristine ocean and the snowcapped mountains were visible in the distance. The scenery became more rural further inland, the mountains gradually built up into the air and were carpeted in a brilliant yellowy-green. In the Waipara region, the farmlands abruptly stop and are replaced by vineyards, still with a backdrop of mountains. As you move towards Hanmer Springs, the mountains slowly begin growing again, and suddenly you’re surrounded by them. Look in the rear-view mirror? Mountains. Look out the passenger window? Mountains. Look out the driver’s side window? The Waiau River runs through a valley far below, but it too has a backdrop of mountains. The roads themselves are not bad either. There were enough passing lanes in the straight sections that I could get past the slow campervans (and so other people that have a bit more experience with switchbacks and windy roads could get past me). I’d have to say my only real complaint is that there weren’t enough places to stop and take photos (although this was probably for the best because otherwise I’d still be somewhere along the road holding my camera). I have to say the Alpine Pacific Triangle was a fantastic way to introduce myself to driving in New Zealand. Here’s hoping all the rest of the roads I drive are just as scenic!

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Day 3: Kaikoura lookouts

April 13, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

This morning, I was completely struck by the beauty of Kaikoura. Even though the clouds had partially raised for sunset yesterday evening, that was nothing compared to what greeted me as the sun rose this morning. The Seaward Kaikouras were towering over the city, coated with a white dusting from the first snow of the season a few days prior. At their feet was the restless aquamarine of the Pacific Ocean.

Even though it’s hard to have a bad view anywhere in Kaikoura, after I finished breakfast I went on a brief search to find the best view possible. Why? It’s the photographer in me, always looking for better angles or interesting ways to frame a shot. I only had a short time in which to look, but I found two cracking spots.

The first is near what was signposted as the “old wharf.” Driving along the Esplanade towards the seal colony, I continued straight onto Wakatu Quay rather than following the road to the right. Along here there are quite a few large rocks that break the waves, creating great water effects and also providing a foreground for your sweeping scenery shot. There’s a line of old wooden posts that also make an interesting foreground, especially when various birds decide to take a breather on them.

Be careful when walking around off the road here — I was snapping a panorama and very nearly ended up wet up to the knees! That would have been fine, but being swept into the water wouldn’t have been nice (especially because it’s not summer by any means, and the warmest the water gets here in mid-summer is 18C).

The second was actually a find from the previous day, when I had been planning to go to the seal colony around sunset but instead followed a sign that pointed down Scarborough St towards a lookout. The sunset was pretty because there were plenty of clouds around to catch the light, but unfortunately there were too many of them because many of the most spectacular mountains were still obscured.

I was impressed enough with the view, which takes in miles of coast south of the Kaikoura peninsula, the peninsula itself, the town, and the Seaward Kaikoura Range, to come back again today. All I can really say about the view in full daylight on a near-cloudless day is wow. What a panorama. What a place. I just sat there thinking, “How could I manage to move here so I could see that view every day? How would I go living in a town where so many people work on the water when I get so badly seasick?”

There are two different viewpoints here — one on car park level (where the obligatory telescope and map explaining the geography of the area), and one on a raised platform above the car park. I actually preferred the carpark level because it meant I had a grassy knoll in the foreground of my photos rather than a plethora of cars and campervans.

By no means am I saying that these are the absolute best places to take in the scenery of Kaikoura (although it might be hard to beat the peninsula lookout without a helicopter).  I just thought I’d share the two spots I found that had me picking my jaw up off the ground!

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Day 1: dinner at Hislops Cafe

April 11, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s not often that you walk into a restaurant and think “wow, this feels like home.” That’s how I felt when I walked into Hislops Wholefoods Cafe in Kaikoura. It didn’t feel like my home, per se, but an idealised version of home where you are cozy and surrounded by the flickering light of a burning fireplace. It was warm and welcoming.

I felt like many of the options on the menu fit right in with this ideal; many would have been perfect meals to finish a cold winter’s day. However, that wasn’t quite what I expected. Although I knew that Hislops specialised in organic wholefoods, I thought there would be more of a seafood selection given its location. There was one platter for 2-3 people with all the seafood you could want, but nothing on the single order menu. I’m not complaining though — after transitioning from sunny Queensland to more autumnal temperatures, I was in the mood for something hearty to warm me up.

And hearty my meal was. I ended up choosing the organic lamb steaks served on a corn and leek brown rice risotto. It was filling and had a lovely flavour to it, especially the lamb. It was just the right portion size as well (mainly because I had enough room for dessert)!

Dessert was very quick to arrive and was a divine citrus bread and butter pudding. The tang from the citrus really added to the standard bread & butter pudding, and to top it off with caramel…well let’s just say I enjoyed every bite, even if I couldn’t quite finish it!

Something I found quite interesting was the number of products that were on sale throughout the cafe. As often happens, the artwork adorning the walls was from a local gallery; I thought the scenes of vineyards and trampers were beautiful and fit in perfectly with the decor. The other products were various organics, from pure organic honey (oh, so tempting) to bags of flour (which, according to their website, are milled on the Hislop family property). It was these that inspired my waitress, a traveler from Estonia, to work at Hislops, where she has been working for seven months (quite a long time for a person on a year-long working holiday visa)!

Overall, I really enjoyed my dinner at Hislops Cafe, and I would definitely eat there again (especially if I got to try the other meal I was considering — seared wild venison)!

Hislops Wholefoods Cafe is located at 33 Beach Road, Kaikoura. They are open from 9am every day in the summer. In winter they are closed on Tuesdays & Wednesdays.

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