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    • Day 1: arrival in Christchurch
    • Day 1: dinner at Hislops Cafe
    • Day 2 : Whale Watch Kaikoura
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    • Day 3: Cafe Encounter
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    • Day 3: Pegasus Bay Winery
    • Day 3: The Alpine Pacific Triangle
    • Day 3: Hanmer Springs Spa & thermal pools
    • Day 4: Powerhouse Cafe
    • Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting
    • Day 4: Mountain Biking without the Biking
    • Day 4: Hanmer Springs thermal pools
    • Day 5: Akaroa Jet Adventure
    • Day 5: Heritage Hanmer Springs
    • Day 5: An accidental drive through Christchurch
    • Day 6: Attempting to swim with Dolphins
    • Day 6: Sea Kayaking with Pohatu Adventures
    • Day 6: Dinner at Ma Maison Restaurant & Bar
    • Day 7: Akaroa Criterion Motel
    • Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight
    • Day 7: The Giant Jersey & the Medieval Mosaic
    • Day 7: A Quick Stop in Geraldine
    • Day 7: Earth & Sky Tour
    • Day 8: Glacier Explorers
    • Day 8: Tekapo Springs
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Browsing Tags Hanmer Springs

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Looking back on my time in Canterbury

May 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s hard to put into words my thoughts on the nine days I spent in Canterbury, New Zealand. Never before have I had such a jam-packed travel schedule where I’ve been able to experience so much about a location in a short period of time. And if you hadn’t guessed it from my other blog posts — I loved it. Yes, it was so busy that sometimes I didn’t have a chance to think, but it was one of the best trips I’ve ever had.

My itinerary made me truly appreciate the diversity of Canterbury. It’s not just Christchurch and the Canterbury Plains. It’s much larger than that, stretching from the blue Pacific to the golden hills of the Mackenzie Basin. Everywhere you look there are mountains, some snowcapped, some that men dream about conquering. It’s such a scenic place that I took over 3600 photos in the span of nine days!

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Canterbury offers such a wide array of experiences as well. The adventurous will find plenty to sate their daredevil appetites –perhaps with a rafting trip down the Waiau followed by a bungee jump above it. However, there’s plenty for those looking for a slightly calmer time as well — it’d be hard to pass on wine tasting in the Waipara followed by a relaxing soak in the hot pools at Hanmer Springs.

Speaking of diversity, I tried so many different foods while in Canterbury that my stomach must have thought it had died and gone to heaven. Mexican, French, Asian, steak, lamb, seafood, fudge…you name it, I probably ate it. It was all delicious, and I’m going to struggle trying to find any meal better than the duck a l’orange I had in Akaroa.

And who can forget the wildlife? In just over a week, I was lucky enough to see three sperm whales, a pod of 200 dusky dolphins, many swooping albatrosses (and some other sea birds too), some fighting eels, many small pods of very endangered Hector’s dolphins, baby New Zealand fur seals frolicking in rock pools, eighty little penguins having a happy hour in the middle of Flea Bay, and a sheep in a hi-vis vest. Had I stayed longer in Mount Cook, I might have been lucky enough to see a cheeky kea — although perhaps only seeing a stained glass version was a bit safer, given their destructive curiosity!

None of these experiences would have been the same — or in some cases, they wouldn’t have been possible at all — without the people of Canterbury. I met so many interesting, friendly, and helpful people along the way — both fellow travellers and locals. Maurice’s Maori Tour in Kaikoura was truly a standout in this respect, because I felt like I learned more about Maori culture and the local people in a few hours than I’d ever known before. Elsewhere in Canterbury, I got a chance to sit down and chat with hotel owners, tour guides, and restaurant chefs about anything and everything New Zealand (with the obligatory questions about my braced knee thrown in). I heard so many interesting stories and got some great tips to help me along as well. With so many people to chat to, I never felt alone.

Which place had the best combination of all of these things? Which was my absolute favourite? It’s such a hard choice…but if I had to pick one, and only one, I would choose Tekapo. It’s such a spectacularly scenic place, but to top it off, some of the experiences I had there were mind-boggling. I’d been admiring mountains on every leg of my trip, but on the Grand Traverse flight, I got to look down on them, watching as the snow blew off their peaks. And everywhere I went, I’d been gazing at the stars, loving how many I could see compared to home, but in Tekapo, I got to see them in a whole new way — from the observatory. In no way did I ever think that I would see Saturn — rings, moons, and all — while I was in NZ!

That said, every place I visited — Kaikoura, the Waipara, Hanmer Springs, Akaroa, Geraldine, Tekapo, and Mount Cook — had its own charm. I genuinely enjoyed visiting all of them, and I often found it very difficult to leave. If I ever got the chance, I would pay each and every place a return visit. I’d love to go back and do some of the things that couldn’t possibly fit into my very full itinerary, but I’d also be happy trying some of the same things again (especially dolphin swimming — hopefully I’d actually be able to get into the water if I went again!).

So, even though it all seems like a faraway dream — something that must have happened to another person, even though I have the pictures and writing to prove it was me — it was such a good dream. It reaffirmed how much I love New Zealand and proved to me that Canterbury should always have a starring place on a South Island itinerary.

I’d like to thank Wotif.com and Canterbury Tourism for all the hard work they put into planning my Canterbury Tiki Tour. They helped me with any questions I may have had along the way and were generally just awesome! 

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Day 5: An accidental drive through Christchurch

April 15, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

The drive from Hanmer Springs to Akaroa was supposed to take me around three hours; it ended up taking me nearly four. Surprisingly, this wasn’t because I stopped too many times to take pictures, but rather, because I missed the turnoff for the ring road around Christchurch and ended up driving right through the central city instead. This was something that I had hoped to be able to squeeze in at the end of my trip so I could see the city with my own eyes, and I was hoping to get out of the car and walk around a bit. Instead, I saw the city from behind the wheel.

The first thing that struck me about Christchurch were the number of cranes towering above the city centre. Whether they were there to tear down red-stickered buildings or to start rebuilding those buildings that were only partially damaged, I’m not sure. Alongside the road were empty lots, a few closed businesses, and one shell of what I’m sure used to be a beautiful church. You could tell that this was a city still very much trying to make its way out of what has been a disastrous few years. It was overwhelmingly sad to witness — and I wasn’t even near the fenced-off area yet.

 

But, at the same time, in many ways the city was completely normal. People were walking their dogs; traffic flowed freely but there were still plenty of cars around. Hagley Park, with the exception of traffic cones on the road around it, looked just as green and lush as it had prior to the earthquakes. It was very inviting and I would have loved to have wandered around — if only I hadn’t been due in Akaroa in less than an hour’s time!

Speaking of being completely normal, the airport shows no signs of the earthquake. As I mentioned in my first post, I actually enjoyed my time at the airport. Besides the fact that you can’t turn in any direction without seeing yet another beautiful shot of New Zealand scenery — which is great when you’re arriving, not so much when you’re already sad to be leaving — but everything seems so modern and open, which is a nice change from the cramped spaces found in many airports. It’s much better than most American airports I’ve been in, that’s for sure.

One place that I was truly sad to miss was the Re:Start village project on Cashel Street Mall. This innovative project brought shipping containers to Christchurch’s central city to be used as temporary housing for shops displaced after the earthquake. I’ve heard that it’s a great and vibrant place to visit; in fact, it’s been so successful that despite initial reports it would close after their six-month lease expired, it’s bigger than ever. It’s a great example of the spirit of the people of Christchurch and it has brought a buzz back to the city. I really hope I’m able to go back again and see it in person.

So, if you’re planning a trip to New Zealand, I think you should consider visiting Christchurch. There are certainly no issues with flying into the city, and I would have loved to have spent more time there, visiting Cashel Mall, strolling through Hagley Park, or even taking in a Crusaders game at AMI Stadium. Even if you just have a day at the beginning or end of your trip, I think it’s worth it. While Christchurch is still at the beginning of a long road to recovery, it’s still a great little city.

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Day 4: Hanmer Springs thermal pools

April 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s not a real day in Hanmer Springs until you’ve visited the hot pools. That was true for my visit; I was in town for two days and I went to the pools twice. I was very much looking forward to my second visit after jumping into the ice cold Waiau River that morning, plus, I wanted to be able to explore the complex a bit more in the daylight to see what it had to offer (seeing as I’d only made it to two of the pools on my previous visit).

Surprisingly, even though there were a lot more people at the pools than the previous evening, the changing rooms were less crowded. This was probably a temporary anomaly, but I made the most of it and quickly headed back to the pools. The only problem was my bag; I was pretty comfortable just leaving it poolside but would have preferred to lock it up so I wasn’t constantly checking on it. However, the lockers required $2 coins, which I didn’t have, so I put my bag on a seat with everyone else’s bags near the pool I had chosen.

I tried out a variety of different pools, from the rock pools to the aquatherapy pools to the hexagonal pools. I think the aquatherapy pools were my favourite because they were sort of like hot tubs, only with hot spring water. The hexagonal pools were 38-40C, which was a bit too much to handle after a while. I much preferred the 35-36C range in many of the other pools! The rock pools were fun because they are like small streams that lead between larger pools; the only problem is that a lot of couples seem to mistake this for privacy so it can occasionally lead to awkward moments when you appear around the corner.

It’s interesting to see how different some destinations can be between day and night. In the case of Hanmer Springs’ thermal pools, the difference is marked. By 7 or 8pm, the pools are still open but many of the kids, whose screams from the waterslides carry across the pools complex by day, have been put to bed. It seems a much less frantic place than during the day, and I found it to be much more calming.

There are definitely up sides to going during the day. For one, while the water is so nice to slip into on a cold night, it’s much easier to get out of the pools during the day when there is still a bit of heat in the air! This can be applied to the waterslides as well. My two-day pass actually gave me access to the waterslides, but every time I considered it, I decided against it as soon as I got out of the pool. Walking to the top of the tower and standing in line while that cold just didn’t seem like much fun!

One useful thing to note — which I unfortunately didn’t – is that you need to get a return pass if you want to leave the pools, and I believe this is only a 10 minute pass to let you get things out of your car. I mistakenly thought that because they gave me a wrist band, I could come and go as I pleased during the day! Luckily they let me in without the return pass one evening just so I could take a few photos with my non-waterproof camera.

If you’re going to Hanmer Springs, it’s very likely that you have a visit to the hot springs in mind. Do I recommend going to the springs during the day or night? Well, if you go in summer, you’ll have to go during the day because the sun is up so late. At other times of year, I don’t recommend one over the other — I think that you should get a two-day pass and try them both for yourself!

Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa is located at 42 Amuri Avenue, Hanmer Springs. The pools are open from 10am-9pm daily; the spa is open from 10am-7pm daily.

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Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting

April 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

I went to sleep in Hanmer Springs and woke up in Scotland. As I drove out of town to the Waiau Bridge, where Thrillseekers Rafting is based, the clouds hung low over the mountain peaks and there was a chill in the air. The smaller mountains near the road were coated in a greenish velvet. All around me, I felt like there were scenes right out of a drive through Glencoe in the Scottish Highlands…although no drive of mine through Glencoe has ever ended in a whitewater rafting trip!

Thrillseekers is based in a wooden cabin high above the brilliantly blue Waiau River. It was in the loft of this cabin that we met Graham, a matter-of-fact Kiwi who has been rafting this river for eight years, and were given all of the essential rafting gear.

Unlike many rafting trips I’ve done, there was no long drive to the starting point. “How will we get back?” queried one fellow rafter. The answer was simple: the jetboat. Cool!

Once everyone hauled the raft down the gravel path to the river, we were off. I could tell that we weren’t in for any serious rapids by the fact that we didn’t have any paddling lessons once we’d launched; on other trips we’ve been required to demonstrate that we can somewhat competently paddle before heading downstream.

In our 1 hour, 15 minute trip we hit a few patches of rough water, but I would say that none of them were bigger than a grade 2 rapid. It was fun when Graham steered us spot-on into a rapid and we got soaked, but there was never any real fear that we were going to capsize (at least, until he suggested on one straight section that we all get up and play tag in the boat).

Near the beginning of the trip, we tied up to some rocks after the guys in the boat volunteered to jump off a small cliff. Their reactions were hilarious — pretty much as soon as they hit the water, they started swimming back to the raft to try to get out of the 8C temperatures as quick as possible! This didn’t deter me when Graham suggested we jump into a calm patch of the river; I was the first person overboard. Graham captured the moment when I landed in the water perfectly. The look on my face says “why did I just do that” mixed with “OH DEAR LORD THAT’S COLD!” I’m very glad I did jump in though, because it made all of the subsequent splashing from the river seem mild, whereas it had previously been a bit like a slap in the face.

Speaking of getting splashed, we got to see the Thrillseekers jetboat up close and personal when it sped by us on a tour; luckily we were in a reasonably narrow part of the river so when he sprayed us it didn’t knock anyone out of the raft (which Graham said had happened before).

I found the most interesting part of the trip to be the scenery and Graham’s description of the changing ways of the Waiau River. He often pointed out areas where the river had decided to completely change course and areas that had evidence of the last flood (of which they get 6 or 7 a year after heavy rains in the mountains). Most interestingly, he pointed out Dog’s Head Rock, which is where a certain rather notorious fault line runs.a reasonably narrow part of the river so when he sprayed us it didn’t knock anyone out of the raft (which Graham said had happened before).

After about 7.5km of rafting, we pulled up onto a bank, deflated the raft, and waited for the jetboat. The trip back was, needless to say, much quicker than the trip down. We didn’t do any 360 spins because we didn’t want to lose the raft overboard, but we still got to take turns at speed and, at one point, had rock walls whizzing past our heads at a much closer proximity than I expected!

Overall, I had an enjoyable trip with Thrillseekers Rafting, but I’d be hesitant to call it “thrillseeking.” I know this is the brand and many of the other activities, like bungy jumping and jetboating, are definitely thrillseeking, but the rafting was pretty tame. As Graham told us, that changes markedly when the river levels are much higher, but I still think that people looking for the big rapids may have to find a different river. That said, it was the perfect trip for me because I’m still nursing a healing knee and I was still able to get out in the raft and have some fun. I think it would be the perfect trip for anyone looking to do something adventurous without being worried that it will be too scary.

Thrillseekers is based at the Waiau River Bridge near the turnoff from Highway 7 to Hanmer Springs. They have another office for bookings at 14 Conical Hill Road in Hanmer Springs. They also offer bungy jumping, jetboating, paintball, and quad biking.

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Day 4: Powerhouse Cafe

April 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

You wouldn’t have guessed it from looking at the size of the Powerhouse Cafe, but it was originally a hydroelectric station that provided power for a small portion of Hanmer Springs. Its size seems much better suited to a bakery and cafe that offers a small indoor area complemented by plenty of outdoor dining space.

When I arrived, I was greeted by Mary, the owner and chef of the restaurant. She told me about the history of the cafe and how they now strive to offer a wide selection of tasty dishes as well as being “Hanmer’s gluten free specialists.”

All of the fresh baked goodies sitting in a window near the cash register were very tempting, but rafting had made me quite hungry so I chose to have a sit down brunch. The menu had a wide array of options, from the standard (eggs florentine or a big breakfast complete with lamb & mint sausage) to the not-so-standard (roast kumara & corn cake or a kedgeree, which is apparently a smoked fish risotto). Surprisingly, the menu also offered favourites that I would expect on a menu in a waffle house in America rather than in New Zealand. I had a hard time choosing between two of these — should I get the sugary goodness of French toast with bacon, bananas, and maple syrup, or the cheesy goodness of huevos rancheros heaped with avocados?

After some internal debate, I ended up choosing the huevos rancheros, complemented by a fresh berry smoothie. Mary brought the smoothie over to my table and then pulled up a chair, which was a great change from the single dining I’d been used to thus far on the trip. I enjoyed being able to talk to her about the Hanmer Springs area and even got some good advice on where to go for the best view of Hanmer & its surrounding mountains (although this required at least a 30-minute walk, which I wasn’t sure I’d be able to do).

The smoothie that Mary brought over was delicious. I could tell it was made from real fresh fruit and it wasn’t excessively sugary like a lot of smoothies can be. Only the brain freeze stopped me from slurping it down as fast as I could!

My brunch didn’t take long at all and arrived on my table looking just as I expect huevos rancheros to look — that is, it was a heaping pile of Mexican goodness. The salsa had just the right amount of bite to it and there was a huge amount of avocado to mix in. The eggs were cooked perfectly — just a bit soft — and their taste mingled with the cheese and tomato quite well. I couldn’t believe that I’d found one of the best Mexican meals I’d had in a long time in the alpine resort town of Hanmer Springs in New Zealand, and I made sure not to leave a single scrap of cheese on the plate.

Even if you’re not as much of a Mexican fiend as I am, I know that if you have lunch at the Powerhouse Cafe you’ll find something that suits your fancy and hits the spot perfectly. And with a location only just around the corner from the hot springs, there’s no excuse not to have a meal there!

The Powerhouse Cafe is located at 8 Jacks Pass Road, Hanmer Springs (just around the corner from the thermal pools). In the summer they are open from 8am-4pm and on Fridays and Saturdays after 6.30pm for dinner. In the winter they are open from 8am-3pm.

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Day 3: Hanmer Springs Spa & thermal pools

April 13, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

How many people get out of the car after a road trip clutching their neck or back, trying to massage out the aches and pains that come from sitting in one spot for too long? I know I do, which is why it was perfect to go straight from the car to Hanmer Springs Spa after having driven nearly three hours today.

I was given the choice of a thirty-minute massage or facial. Although I was curious, having never actually had a facial, I eventually chose the massage because I thought my back might appreciate it in light of some of my upcoming activities.

I changed into the robe and slippers that I had been given (noting while in the changing room that the shower doors were virtually see-through — is that really necessary in a public changing room?) and then wandered into the lounge room to wait for my therapist. It was quiet and the music was calming, as is the norm in spas, although this peace was occasionally broken by the shrieks of children frolicking in the hot pools just outside.

The massage itself was quite nice. The therapist used quite a bit of pressure at some points (mainly trying to break up knots around my neck), but it was much more relaxing than the standard remedial massage that I get at home. By the end of it, I had descended into a dozy, dreamlike state and found it really difficult to get up. I was happy to just lie there for a while, thinking about nothing at all.

The spa is attached to the hot springs complex, which I made it back to for an evening dip just before dinner. There was a bit of a chill to the air, which made the pools seem that much warmer. I wasn’t too picky about which pool I got into first; my only criteria was that I didn’t want to get into the 42C sulfur pools because I didn’t want to stink for dinner. Therefore, I just found the closest pool and hopped in.

It was really relaxing just to lie there with my head just above the water, watching as the light slowly faded from the sky. Steam radiated from the pool, but more interestingly, everyone that got out of the pools radiated steam. At first, I thought I was just seeing things, but people seemed to have wings as they hurried from one pool to another.

The peace in our pool was broken when one mother yelled, “There’s poo in the pool!” This was like standing in a wooden building and yelling “Fire!” I couldn’t believe how quickly the mass exodus occurred (even though it turned out to be a false alarm).

The “poo” seemed to have impeccable timing because it was discovered at the exact time I’d told myself I’d start getting ready for dinner. I didn’t mind having to leave after such a short visit because my pass extends until 9pm tomorrow night, and I fully intend to make the most of that. I think a hot aquatherapy pool will be just what my body needs after the excitement of a whitewater rafting trip tomorrow morning!

Hanmer Springs Thermal Pools & Spa is located at 42 Amuri Avenue, Hanmer Springs. The pools are open from 10am-9pm daily; the spa is open from 10am-7pm daily.

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Day 3: The Alpine Pacific Triangle

April 13, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

All along the roads from Christchurch to Kaikoura and Hanmer Springs, there are signs stating you are driving on the “Alpine Pacific Triangle,” which has “hot pools, vineyards, whale watching, and dolphins.” I knew this must be describing Kaikoura, Hanmer Springs, and Waipara, but still, every time I saw a sign I wondered…what exactly is the Alpine Pacific Triangle and why had I never heard of it before? Well, it turns out the Triangle is exactly what I guessed — the three towns mentioned above and the scenic roads that link them. These roads are State Highway 1 between Waipara and Kaikoura, SH70 between Kaikoura and Hanmer Springs, and SH7 between Hanmer and Waipara. Each leg of the triangle is a comfortable drive (at most around 2.5 hours).

The towns in the triangle are very different in what they have to offer, but they are all memorable in their own way. Waipara has an array of outstanding vineyards, so you can hop from cellar door to cellar door trying out the best that Canterbury has to offer. Hanmer Springs is all about luxury and relaxation — enjoying the alpine views while lounging in a hot pool or getting a well-earned massage. In Kaikoura, the mountains are much more rugged and the experiences are a lot more adventurous, including whale watching and dolphin swimming. I found all of these towns to be stunning visually and often had trouble pulling myself away from the good views, but the same can be said for the roads linking them. I think this is what the Alpine Pacific Triangle was truly created for — the driving. This is nothing like hopping on the Pacific Highway for a drive down to the Gold Coast. The driving is fun (and I can only imagine how much more fun it would be on a motorcycle) and spectacular scenic.   On this trip, I’ve done each direction on two legs of the Triangle (but missed the Kaikoura-Hanmer Springs link on SH70). Each time, I spent a lot of time in disbelief that a place could be so naturally beautiful in so many different ways. On the Kaikoura coast, rocks sprayed out into the pristine ocean and the snowcapped mountains were visible in the distance. The scenery became more rural further inland, the mountains gradually built up into the air and were carpeted in a brilliant yellowy-green. In the Waipara region, the farmlands abruptly stop and are replaced by vineyards, still with a backdrop of mountains. As you move towards Hanmer Springs, the mountains slowly begin growing again, and suddenly you’re surrounded by them. Look in the rear-view mirror? Mountains. Look out the passenger window? Mountains. Look out the driver’s side window? The Waiau River runs through a valley far below, but it too has a backdrop of mountains. The roads themselves are not bad either. There were enough passing lanes in the straight sections that I could get past the slow campervans (and so other people that have a bit more experience with switchbacks and windy roads could get past me). I’d have to say my only real complaint is that there weren’t enough places to stop and take photos (although this was probably for the best because otherwise I’d still be somewhere along the road holding my camera). I have to say the Alpine Pacific Triangle was a fantastic way to introduce myself to driving in New Zealand. Here’s hoping all the rest of the roads I drive are just as scenic!

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