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    • Day 1: arrival in Christchurch
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    • Day 2: White Morph Restaurant
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Browsing Tags Kaikoura peninsula

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Day 3: Kaikoura lookouts

April 13, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

This morning, I was completely struck by the beauty of Kaikoura. Even though the clouds had partially raised for sunset yesterday evening, that was nothing compared to what greeted me as the sun rose this morning. The Seaward Kaikouras were towering over the city, coated with a white dusting from the first snow of the season a few days prior. At their feet was the restless aquamarine of the Pacific Ocean.

Even though it’s hard to have a bad view anywhere in Kaikoura, after I finished breakfast I went on a brief search to find the best view possible. Why? It’s the photographer in me, always looking for better angles or interesting ways to frame a shot. I only had a short time in which to look, but I found two cracking spots.

The first is near what was signposted as the “old wharf.” Driving along the Esplanade towards the seal colony, I continued straight onto Wakatu Quay rather than following the road to the right. Along here there are quite a few large rocks that break the waves, creating great water effects and also providing a foreground for your sweeping scenery shot. There’s a line of old wooden posts that also make an interesting foreground, especially when various birds decide to take a breather on them.

Be careful when walking around off the road here — I was snapping a panorama and very nearly ended up wet up to the knees! That would have been fine, but being swept into the water wouldn’t have been nice (especially because it’s not summer by any means, and the warmest the water gets here in mid-summer is 18C).

The second was actually a find from the previous day, when I had been planning to go to the seal colony around sunset but instead followed a sign that pointed down Scarborough St towards a lookout. The sunset was pretty because there were plenty of clouds around to catch the light, but unfortunately there were too many of them because many of the most spectacular mountains were still obscured.

I was impressed enough with the view, which takes in miles of coast south of the Kaikoura peninsula, the peninsula itself, the town, and the Seaward Kaikoura Range, to come back again today. All I can really say about the view in full daylight on a near-cloudless day is wow. What a panorama. What a place. I just sat there thinking, “How could I manage to move here so I could see that view every day? How would I go living in a town where so many people work on the water when I get so badly seasick?”

There are two different viewpoints here — one on car park level (where the obligatory telescope and map explaining the geography of the area), and one on a raised platform above the car park. I actually preferred the carpark level because it meant I had a grassy knoll in the foreground of my photos rather than a plethora of cars and campervans.

By no means am I saying that these are the absolute best places to take in the scenery of Kaikoura (although it might be hard to beat the peninsula lookout without a helicopter).  I just thought I’d share the two spots I found that had me picking my jaw up off the ground!

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Day 2: White Morph Restaurant

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

The town of Kaikoura has a very unique location. It sits just to the north of the Kaikoura peninsula, which juts out five kilometers into the Pacific Ocean and is north of a massive underwater trench. The trench reaches up to 1300m deep and attracts a huge amount of sea life, from the very tiny all the way up to sperm whales and orcas, and the prevailing currents bring this sea life closer to the surface around the peninsula. This means there is an abundance of seafood ready to be caught, especially crayfish — which is why the town’s name actually means “meal of crayfish” in Maori.

All of this explains why I was excited about my dinner at White Morph, one of Kaikoura’s top seafood restaurants, especially since it was my last night in town and I hadn’t yet tried any seafood!

The restaurant is very classy. There was quiet music (except for the one time that a waitress leaned on the volume button), the lighting was dim, and there were candles on all of the tables. The service was very quick and my waiter was very friendly and quite helpful with explaining different options on the menu. I didn’t spend much time considering other options before choosing a starter and a main that amounted to a seafood feast (although sadly, the crayfish, starting at $65, was out of my price range).

To say I was happy when my starter arrived is an understatement. It was a heaping pile of Marlborough green-lipped mussels, presumably fresh from the sounds. They were served in a chili and white wine sauce which added just the right amount of flavour without being overwhelming. I finished the entire plate and then wondered how I was going to somehow fit in my main!

That main was a citrus marinated Akaroa salmon with veggies and a beautiful Romesco sauce. It was just the right size after having a huge starter, and I thought it was very tasty. I wasn’t as big a fan of the wine — a local chardonnay from Kaikoura’s Papatea winery. It was just a bit too tart — I much prefer a smoother wine. Maybe I shouldn’t have ordered a chardonnay in that case, but I wanted to try something as local as possible!

I would definitely go back to White Morph if I got the chance. I’d even be tempted to have the same seafood feast all over again because it was delicious and fresh — exactly what you would hope for from a restaurant sitting across the road from the sea.

White Morph is located at 94 Esplanade, Kaikoura. They are open for dinner 7 days a week from 5.30pm.

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Day 2: Maurice’s Maori Tours Kaikoura

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

When someone mentions a Maori tour, it usually brings to mind thoughts of mass tours in Rotorua that consist of a performance following a hangi. Maurice’s Maori Tour in Kaikoura is completely different from these tours. Rather than being performed for, you are brought into the culture. Rather than being treated like a tourist, you are treated like family. It is a personal, entertaining, and informative tour that everyone I’ve talked to in Kaikoura (and even a Twitter follower in Singapore) has raved about, and I am going to too.

I could tell that Maurice was going to be an interesting guide from the get go. He’s full of life and you can tell that he loves what he does because he’s having fun. Just one instance of him having fun? He proudly introduced our second guide, Karen, as being from the “troublemaker tribe.”

The first place that they took us was to the Maori pa on the Kaikoura peninsula. Here, rather than just telling us about the traditions of the Maori, we were able to witness them in action. One of the highlights was learning how to introduce ourselves.

 

Introducing yourself isn’t simply a case of shaking hands and saying your name. Instead, you first talk about your mountain — either the mountain closest to your home or the one you identify with the most strongly. Then you tell of your river, then your canoe (or whatever mode of transport you feel most strongly about), then your tribe, and then your first name. This resulted in the following introduction for me:

“My mountain is Mt. Coot-tha in the inner suburbs of Brisbane. My river is the Brisbane River, so beautiful and muddy. My canoe is the Qantas flight that brought me to Australia when I moved there four years ago. My tribe is Repsher, originally Rebscher, which loosely means person that picks grapes off vines in German. My name is Kristin.”

During a thoroughly entertaining discussion that included all of us being given our own Maori names, Maurice introduced us to the song that we were going to learn by the end of the tour. This was written out with English pronunciations on a laminated card for each of us. We all took a few stumbling steps towards learning it before heading back to the van to briefly stop at the marae, the traditional meeting house for Maurice and Karen’s tribe. We then continued on to the carvings at South Bay.

The carvings, including one of Maui pulling the North Island from the water, brought with them another round of stories. Then we got to do what turned out to be a highlight for many: the weaving. While Maurice was telling us about the carvings, Karen was collecting flax for weaving into flowers. Her deft fingers nimbly moved the leaves around, and we all clumsily followed along until we all had pretty flowers too. Everyone was incredibly proud of their artwork!

Our next stop was for morning tea at Maurice’s house, where we all introduced ourselves in the proper way to his wife Heather and his two grandsons, who introduced themselves completely in Maori (as Maurice and Karen had done). Being there and sharing their food really added to the feeling that we really were being treated as family.

Every time we had been in the van, we practiced the song that Maurice gave us at the pa. His living room was where we got to put on our grand performance; we all sat in a circle singing as Maurice strummed his guitar. It was yet another thing for us to be proud of, especially because Heather said we were the best group she’d heard today!

Our final stop was in the Puhi Puhi Valley to the north of Kaikoura. This valley was a target of loggers in the early 1900s but some parts, such as the forest near the children’s school (the only evidence of which is a foundation) are still just as they were. It was here that we got to immerse ourselves in the natural side of Maori culture, learning about leaves and trees and their significance to the Maori people. We saw some very impressive trees, including totaras that were hundreds of years old. At the base of a few of these trees, we stopped and sang our song again.

I can’t, in a single blog entry, give justice to just what a great tour this was. The details we were given about all sorts of events and legends would easily be three or four times the length of this post if I wrote them down — and that’s just the ones I can remember! Yet the tour was great not because we were given all this information, but because of the way it was imparted. Maurice and Karen are very proud of their culture and are very willing to share it with everyone and they should be proud of the way they do it.

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Day 2: Whale Watch Kaikoura

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

Today got off to a very inauspicious start when I found out that a low mist had enveloped Kaikoura overnight, which caused all early-morning whale watches to be cancelled. This meant that, while I was eating a hearty bacon & egg breakfast at Flukes Cafe, I was trying to mentally work out if a later whale watch would fit into my schedule for the day. However, this concern turned out to be for naught when I realised I was working off the wrong version of the schedule — turns out my whale watch wasn’t until 1.15pm anyway!

By the time 1.15 rolled around, the clouds were still low over the mountains but it was all blue sky and sunshine at the beachside area where Whale Watch Kaikoura is based. After a short safety briefing, we all loaded up into a bus for a drive to the other side of the Kaikoura peninsula, where we met our home for the next few hours — the catamaran Paikea. Those who have seen the film Whale Rider may recognise this name because Paikea is the whale rider; according to Maori myth, after the canoe he was riding in sunk, he grabbed ahold of a whale who took him all the way south to New Zealand.

Paikea must have been a lot better at handling seasickness than the people n board his namesake, because a few faces started to turn a bit green as soonas we headed out into the 1.5m swell. We were told that we were lucky because the whales seen earlier in the day were only six miles from shore, but that six miles was quite unsettling to some (including me). However, once they announced that a sperm whale was visible on the port side, I did my best to forget it and herded outside.

Whale Watch Kaikoura’s boats are quite well designed, in that there never seemed to be anyone clambering for space in front of other people. Everyone stood single file along the side of the vessel (and on top) and admired the giant of the sea as he caught his breath. As we learned from the talk on the way out, sperm whales only stay on the surface for between 5-10 minutes before they do a deep dive and disappear for up to an hour, and we caught this one at the end of his trip to the surface. This means we only had a minute or two before he took one final breath and dove, giving us a great view of his tail as he gracefully disappeared beneath the water (and I really liked that about the sperm whale — unlike the humpback, if you see a sperm whale here, you’re almost guaranteed to see his tail).

We were lucky enough to spot two other whales, both of which had only just come to the surface when we reached them. One was Tiaki, a very large whale and a very well-known one around Kaikoura. Both happily hung out at the surface, giving us nice blow photos (or at least, you think they’re nice until you realise you’re taking photos of whale snot) before eventually disappearing back into Kaikoura Canyon again. I’ve seen whales a few times now in Queensland, but I still just stand in awe at how truly large some creatures are (and how graceful they are in spite of it!).

Kaikoura Canyon is what makes this area home to such a rich population of sea life. Not far from the shore of the peninsula, the ocean drops to over 1300m deep, creating a trench full of nutrients that the smallest sea life lives on. Because they flourish, so do the larger animals that hunt them, thus the presence of animals like the sperm whale and the orca.

After seeing the three whales, our captain took us closer to shore in an attempt to find other sea and bird life to entertain us with. It didn’t take long — we very quickly came across a flock of sea birds floating in the swell. These included a few shy albatrosses and a Westland petrel. Then we hit the jackpot when we came upon a small pod of dusky dolphins who frolicked in front of our bow as we moved slowly along. When we moved a bit to the north, we found ourselves smack in the middle of a pod of 200 dolphins. All around us they were splashing, spinning in circles around one another under the water, and doing flips for our entertainment. They were happy and showing it, and in turn, we were happy.

Eventually, we turned back to shore, and while I was sad to leave the dolphins and whales behind, my stomach was certainly very happy to be back on dry land. But even if it meant another bout of near-seasickness, would I go out with Whale Watch Kaikoura again? In a heartbeat.

Whale Watch Kaikoura is located at The Whaleway Station, Whaleway Road, near the Kaikoura train station. Whale watch tours are available from $145 ($60 for children). Up to 7 tours depart daily.

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