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Browsing Tags Mount Cook

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Looking back on my time in Canterbury

May 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s hard to put into words my thoughts on the nine days I spent in Canterbury, New Zealand. Never before have I had such a jam-packed travel schedule where I’ve been able to experience so much about a location in a short period of time. And if you hadn’t guessed it from my other blog posts — I loved it. Yes, it was so busy that sometimes I didn’t have a chance to think, but it was one of the best trips I’ve ever had.

My itinerary made me truly appreciate the diversity of Canterbury. It’s not just Christchurch and the Canterbury Plains. It’s much larger than that, stretching from the blue Pacific to the golden hills of the Mackenzie Basin. Everywhere you look there are mountains, some snowcapped, some that men dream about conquering. It’s such a scenic place that I took over 3600 photos in the span of nine days!

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Canterbury offers such a wide array of experiences as well. The adventurous will find plenty to sate their daredevil appetites –perhaps with a rafting trip down the Waiau followed by a bungee jump above it. However, there’s plenty for those looking for a slightly calmer time as well — it’d be hard to pass on wine tasting in the Waipara followed by a relaxing soak in the hot pools at Hanmer Springs.

Speaking of diversity, I tried so many different foods while in Canterbury that my stomach must have thought it had died and gone to heaven. Mexican, French, Asian, steak, lamb, seafood, fudge…you name it, I probably ate it. It was all delicious, and I’m going to struggle trying to find any meal better than the duck a l’orange I had in Akaroa.

And who can forget the wildlife? In just over a week, I was lucky enough to see three sperm whales, a pod of 200 dusky dolphins, many swooping albatrosses (and some other sea birds too), some fighting eels, many small pods of very endangered Hector’s dolphins, baby New Zealand fur seals frolicking in rock pools, eighty little penguins having a happy hour in the middle of Flea Bay, and a sheep in a hi-vis vest. Had I stayed longer in Mount Cook, I might have been lucky enough to see a cheeky kea — although perhaps only seeing a stained glass version was a bit safer, given their destructive curiosity!

None of these experiences would have been the same — or in some cases, they wouldn’t have been possible at all — without the people of Canterbury. I met so many interesting, friendly, and helpful people along the way — both fellow travellers and locals. Maurice’s Maori Tour in Kaikoura was truly a standout in this respect, because I felt like I learned more about Maori culture and the local people in a few hours than I’d ever known before. Elsewhere in Canterbury, I got a chance to sit down and chat with hotel owners, tour guides, and restaurant chefs about anything and everything New Zealand (with the obligatory questions about my braced knee thrown in). I heard so many interesting stories and got some great tips to help me along as well. With so many people to chat to, I never felt alone.

Which place had the best combination of all of these things? Which was my absolute favourite? It’s such a hard choice…but if I had to pick one, and only one, I would choose Tekapo. It’s such a spectacularly scenic place, but to top it off, some of the experiences I had there were mind-boggling. I’d been admiring mountains on every leg of my trip, but on the Grand Traverse flight, I got to look down on them, watching as the snow blew off their peaks. And everywhere I went, I’d been gazing at the stars, loving how many I could see compared to home, but in Tekapo, I got to see them in a whole new way — from the observatory. In no way did I ever think that I would see Saturn — rings, moons, and all — while I was in NZ!

That said, every place I visited — Kaikoura, the Waipara, Hanmer Springs, Akaroa, Geraldine, Tekapo, and Mount Cook — had its own charm. I genuinely enjoyed visiting all of them, and I often found it very difficult to leave. If I ever got the chance, I would pay each and every place a return visit. I’d love to go back and do some of the things that couldn’t possibly fit into my very full itinerary, but I’d also be happy trying some of the same things again (especially dolphin swimming — hopefully I’d actually be able to get into the water if I went again!).

So, even though it all seems like a faraway dream — something that must have happened to another person, even though I have the pictures and writing to prove it was me — it was such a good dream. It reaffirmed how much I love New Zealand and proved to me that Canterbury should always have a starring place on a South Island itinerary.

I’d like to thank Wotif.com and Canterbury Tourism for all the hard work they put into planning my Canterbury Tiki Tour. They helped me with any questions I may have had along the way and were generally just awesome! 

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Day 8: Boating the Tasman Glacier Lake with Glacier Explorers

April 18, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

One thing that really stuck out to me on my itinerary when I first saw it was the Glacier Explorers trip on the Tasman Glacier lake. It’s something on my ‘travel bucket list’ — well, kayaking on a glacier lake is, but this is close enough. I was excited about getting the chance to get up close and personal with some icebergs.

Our guide was a bit concerned about my ability to even make it to the lake because the second leg of the trip, after the scenic drive through the Tasman Valley from Mount Cook Village, is a 1.5km walk over loose gravel. I was willing to give it a try because I really didn’t want to miss the experience and because my leg has held up pretty well on this trip.

The walk really wasn’t as bad as the guide made it out to be. The first half was on a decent path; the second half was on gravel but didn’t involve any sharp declines so I wasn’t concerned about slipping and falling. The scenery was amazing — there were mountains all around us but it still often seemed like we were in a sparse, almost lunar landscape because of all the loose moraine. Parts of it struck me as being very similar to the Tongariro Crossing, albeit with a lot more mountains.

Once there, we put our belongings we didn’t want to get wet in the shed (they pointed out there is a chance we would get wet, although it hadn’t happened in 18 years of boating the lake). Then we were handed our lifejackets and divided up into the three boats that would be heading out.

Unlike Lakes Tekapo and Pukaki, which are glacier-fed lakes, the Tasman Glacier lake is a dull grey colour because there is still such a high concentration of rock flour in the lake. In fact, our guide pointed out that one iceberg hadn’t moved in a month and they suspect the reason is because it got stuck on some rock flour which glued it to the bottom.

The first order of business once the boat had drifted out onto the murky greyness was the safety briefing, which was pretty standard except for the first point. Our guide asked us to put our hands in the water until he counted to ten, and then veeeery slowly began counting.  By the time ten came around, I was quite uncomfortable — not surprising, given the water is 1C at most. This did a very good job of showing us why we shouldn’t be trying to swim in the lake (although I would have been willing to take his word for it, given it’s a lake with icebergs in it).

As we motored around the lake, we learned all sorts of interesting facts about the Tasman Glacier and its terminal lake. The glacier is currently 27km in length but is receding up the valley at a pace of about 300m per year. The lake is a product of the recession of the glacier; the wall of moraine that holds it in at the far end marks the length of the glacier just before the lake formed (6km further down the valley from its current terminal face).

Near where we launched at the end of the lake, we pulled up around a few icebergs and were given the chance to touch the smooth ice. Some of us broke off pieces so we could taste iceberg water; we were told it would taste a bit like dirt due to all the suspended rock particles but I thought it tasted nice and fresh.

Then we sped over to the other side of the lake, taking in the spectacular views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and all of the other mountains in Mount Cook National Park. Once we stopped near the terminal face and our wake dissipated, the water was glass and perfectly reflective of the mountains beyond.

Even though the glacier is much smaller than it used to be, it’s still a very impressive natural phenomenon. We weren’t allowed too close because there can be large events of ice shearing off where the only warning is a huge cracking noise before ice comes bubbling out of the water underneath the glacier. Our guide has been on the lake when this happened and said it’s perfectly safe — provided you’re not too close in the first place.

Unsuspectingly, our guide saved the best for last. As we sat near the glacier, he watched an iceberg roll and quickly made his way over to it. The ice was still a brilliant blue colour, which you can only see in the first few hours after a roll as it becomes more and more white. The sunlight sparkled through it, only blocked by the myriad of rock particles suspended inside. It was beautiful and we were so fortunate to be able to see it.

After about an hour, we pulled back up to the dock to prepare for our walk back to the bus (which I thought was even better than the walk in because we could see Mount Cook towering over us). As we pulled into the dock, our guide told us to pretend we’re excited and make a lot of noise for the people in the other boats. I certainly didn’t have to pretend — I was very excited! It was so different from anything I had done before, and to be honest, I was happy I was in a boat rather than a kayak because we got to see much more than we would have otherwise.

Glacier Explorers is based in the Hermitage Hotel in Mount Cook Village and does multiple trips to the Tasman Glacier lake daily.

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Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight

April 17, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

 

On the drive to Tekapo, I was very concerned that my scenic flight with Air Safaris wouldn’t happen, or if it did, that we wouldn’t see very much because of the heavy rain and low cloud. Then something amazing happened — I turned a corner and the clouds just parted, which is apparently a pretty common occurrence around the Tekapo region. By the time I reached the airport, it was picture perfect.

The Air Safaris pilots agreed that it was a perfect day for flying so the four of us followed our pilot, Isaac, out to the plane (a Gippsland Aeronautics GA8). After being given a safety briefing and being told this was one of the safest planes we could fly on, we loaded into the plane. One major advantage of flying in a plane rather than a helicopter is that everyone is guaranteed a window seat, whereas only a few people are that lucky in a helicopter. Our windows were really quite large so we had a huge range of view.

Once we were belted and ready to go, we taxied to the end of the runway. Our pilot said that we needed to wait there for a while because when it’s colder, the plane takes a little while to warm up. I think we were all perfectly happy for him to wait as long as necessary!

Soon, we were in the air, flying over the chocolate-coloured tussock of the Mackenzie Basin. We slowly looped around the town of Tekapo and then, as we slowly gained altitude, headed north along the deep blue lake. Because the seat on the other side of the aisle was empty and I had a great view out that window as well, it was hard to tell where to look. Everywhere there was something new to look at — from the braided Godley River feeding into Lake Tekapo to the high country sheep stations to Lake Alexandria. All the while, our pilot was giving us a running commentary on what we are seeing and why these places are the way they are. For instance, Lake Tekapo gets its very unique colour from ‘rock flour,’ rocks that the glaciers feed into the lake grind up as they slowly move.

The first large mountain we saw was Mount Sibbald, which is separated from the main body of the Southern Alps by the Godley River. Even though it’s not part of the main range, Isaac pointed out that at 2811m, it’s still higher than any peaks on the North Island.

From there, we turned towards the West and began heading through the Southern Alps, where it seemed like everything just increased in size and majesty. All around us were glaciers, such as the Murchison and Hooker Glaciers, snow, and high mountain peaks.

The trip across to the West Coast got a bit bumpy, as is usually the case when flying over big mountains. The plane lurched up and down and side to side a few times but Isaac assured us that everything was perfectly normal. He was keen to fly on the West Coast side for as long as possible because the afternoon light was so nice on that side, but he was concerned it might be too bumpy for our comfort; fortunately, the air around us played nice.

I felt like a bit of a broken record, saying “woooow!” every time something new came into view. The conditions really seemed perfect — the afternoon light played on the Pacific Ocean and tufts of cloud floated around the mountain peaks to make them just that little bit more scenic (as if they weren’t enough already)! Further down the valleys, you could see the heavy cloud that so often coats the West Coast, but it was far enough down we could still see the glaciers.

The glaciers were something to truly marvel at, with all of the cracks and bright blue crevasses. We couldn’t get as close to them as you would in a helicopter, but I was fine with that — my view meant that I could see the details on the glaciers and a lot more!

It was such a clear day that, as well as seeing New Zealand’s two highest peaks in Mount Cook/Aoraki and Mount Tasman, we could also see as far south as Mount Aspiring in Wanaka.

The tall peaks were incredibly impressive. Snow was being lifted up and away from Mount Tasman in a plume. Mount Cook was imposing and covered in snow and rocky outcrops. I couldn’t imagine being one of the people that had conquered that peak — it all seemed much easier to just see it out of the window of an airplane!

All too soon, we had to head away from the Alps and back towards Tekapo. On the way, we flew over the Tasman Glacier, New Zealand’s largest glacier, and saw the little icebergs dotting the terminal lake (which I will be boating around tomorrow)! Then we were back over the Mackenzie Basin and again marveling at the colours, rivers, and lakes that dot the region before Isaac expertly landed the plane back at Tekapo Airport.

All in all, I believe we were up in the air for over 45 minutes. It was an absolutely fantastic flight and one I would get on again in a heartbeat. I had been a bit concerned about the bumpiness of the ride, but aside from the turbulence I’d mentioned, it was smooth and unconcerning. Plus, the views out the window are enough to take your mind off pretty much anything!

Air Safaris operate multiple flights daily out of Tekapo and Franz Josef Airports and have offices in these townships. The flight I did was the ‘Grand Traverse.’

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