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    • Day 3: Cafe Encounter
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    • Day 3: The Alpine Pacific Triangle
    • Day 3: Hanmer Springs Spa & thermal pools
    • Day 4: Powerhouse Cafe
    • Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting
    • Day 4: Mountain Biking without the Biking
    • Day 4: Hanmer Springs thermal pools
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    • Day 5: Heritage Hanmer Springs
    • Day 5: An accidental drive through Christchurch
    • Day 6: Attempting to swim with Dolphins
    • Day 6: Sea Kayaking with Pohatu Adventures
    • Day 6: Dinner at Ma Maison Restaurant & Bar
    • Day 7: Akaroa Criterion Motel
    • Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight
    • Day 7: The Giant Jersey & the Medieval Mosaic
    • Day 7: A Quick Stop in Geraldine
    • Day 7: Earth & Sky Tour
    • Day 8: Glacier Explorers
    • Day 8: Tekapo Springs
    • Day 9: Peppers Bluewater Resort
    • Day 9: The Church of the Good Shepherd
    • Day 9: The Inland Scenic Route
    • Looking back on my time in Canterbury
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A Tiki tour of Canterbury

July 10, 2012 · Wot Blog

One of my goals during my trip around Canterbury was to keep the world as up-to-date as possible on everything I was doing. No mountain range or plate of food was left unphotographed, and Instagram allowed me to share these photos instantly so I didn’t have to wait until I got back to my hotel to transfer the photos from my camera.

When I got back to Australia, I checked out Blurb.com with the intention of making a photo book for my family in time for Christmas. As I browsed the website, I had an idea. Why not use all of my Instagram photos in a book? They truly tell the tale of my Tiki tour, of all the emotions I was feeling as I traveled from Kaikoura to Tekapo (and to all the stops in between).

One emotion that I felt throughout my trip was happiness. Not only was I getting a dream trip around an amazing country, but I was helping to show that Canterbury deserves a starring role in any South Island itinerary. Yes, the earthquakes and aftershocks have laid Christchurch low, but it and the Canterbury region as a whole are still very much open for business. With this book, I felt I had an opportunity to help even more. Not only would I be able to reach more people with the message that they should visit Canterbury, but I could also donate all proceeds from the book to the Christchurch Earthquake Appeal.

You can preview my book below. Please consider purchasing it as a book (AU $31.99 and up) or an ebook (AU $6.54). Every purchase will go towards helping the people of Christchurch rebuild their city.

A Tiki Tour of Canterbury by Kristin Repsher | Make Your Own Book
-43.532054 172.636225
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Looking back on my time in Canterbury

May 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s hard to put into words my thoughts on the nine days I spent in Canterbury, New Zealand. Never before have I had such a jam-packed travel schedule where I’ve been able to experience so much about a location in a short period of time. And if you hadn’t guessed it from my other blog posts — I loved it. Yes, it was so busy that sometimes I didn’t have a chance to think, but it was one of the best trips I’ve ever had.

My itinerary made me truly appreciate the diversity of Canterbury. It’s not just Christchurch and the Canterbury Plains. It’s much larger than that, stretching from the blue Pacific to the golden hills of the Mackenzie Basin. Everywhere you look there are mountains, some snowcapped, some that men dream about conquering. It’s such a scenic place that I took over 3600 photos in the span of nine days!

Thrillseekers Rafting

Pegasus Bay Winery

Canterbury offers such a wide array of experiences as well. The adventurous will find plenty to sate their daredevil appetites –perhaps with a rafting trip down the Waiau followed by a bungee jump above it. However, there’s plenty for those looking for a slightly calmer time as well — it’d be hard to pass on wine tasting in the Waipara followed by a relaxing soak in the hot pools at Hanmer Springs.

Speaking of diversity, I tried so many different foods while in Canterbury that my stomach must have thought it had died and gone to heaven. Mexican, French, Asian, steak, lamb, seafood, fudge…you name it, I probably ate it. It was all delicious, and I’m going to struggle trying to find any meal better than the duck a l’orange I had in Akaroa.

And who can forget the wildlife? In just over a week, I was lucky enough to see three sperm whales, a pod of 200 dusky dolphins, many swooping albatrosses (and some other sea birds too), some fighting eels, many small pods of very endangered Hector’s dolphins, baby New Zealand fur seals frolicking in rock pools, eighty little penguins having a happy hour in the middle of Flea Bay, and a sheep in a hi-vis vest. Had I stayed longer in Mount Cook, I might have been lucky enough to see a cheeky kea — although perhaps only seeing a stained glass version was a bit safer, given their destructive curiosity!

None of these experiences would have been the same — or in some cases, they wouldn’t have been possible at all — without the people of Canterbury. I met so many interesting, friendly, and helpful people along the way — both fellow travellers and locals. Maurice’s Maori Tour in Kaikoura was truly a standout in this respect, because I felt like I learned more about Maori culture and the local people in a few hours than I’d ever known before. Elsewhere in Canterbury, I got a chance to sit down and chat with hotel owners, tour guides, and restaurant chefs about anything and everything New Zealand (with the obligatory questions about my braced knee thrown in). I heard so many interesting stories and got some great tips to help me along as well. With so many people to chat to, I never felt alone.

Which place had the best combination of all of these things? Which was my absolute favourite? It’s such a hard choice…but if I had to pick one, and only one, I would choose Tekapo. It’s such a spectacularly scenic place, but to top it off, some of the experiences I had there were mind-boggling. I’d been admiring mountains on every leg of my trip, but on the Grand Traverse flight, I got to look down on them, watching as the snow blew off their peaks. And everywhere I went, I’d been gazing at the stars, loving how many I could see compared to home, but in Tekapo, I got to see them in a whole new way — from the observatory. In no way did I ever think that I would see Saturn — rings, moons, and all — while I was in NZ!

That said, every place I visited — Kaikoura, the Waipara, Hanmer Springs, Akaroa, Geraldine, Tekapo, and Mount Cook — had its own charm. I genuinely enjoyed visiting all of them, and I often found it very difficult to leave. If I ever got the chance, I would pay each and every place a return visit. I’d love to go back and do some of the things that couldn’t possibly fit into my very full itinerary, but I’d also be happy trying some of the same things again (especially dolphin swimming — hopefully I’d actually be able to get into the water if I went again!).

So, even though it all seems like a faraway dream — something that must have happened to another person, even though I have the pictures and writing to prove it was me — it was such a good dream. It reaffirmed how much I love New Zealand and proved to me that Canterbury should always have a starring place on a South Island itinerary.

I’d like to thank Wotif.com and Canterbury Tourism for all the hard work they put into planning my Canterbury Tiki Tour. They helped me with any questions I may have had along the way and were generally just awesome! 

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Day 9: The Inland Scenic Route

May 3, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

When I reached Geraldine on my drive back to Christchurch, I was struck by the change from a few days before. When I saw the town on my way to Tekapo, it was through a dull drizzle that reminded me very much of England. The town was still pretty, but the weather very much inspired me to stay inside. This day was the complete opposite — I wanted to get out of my car and wander past the old buildings, tasting various goodies from shops as I went. However, this wasn’t to be because I had a flight to catch, so I continued on through the town.

On the other side of town, I was presented with a choice — do I take State Highway 1 back to Christchurch, or do I take the Inland Scenic Route? After a bit of poking around on my GPS (which refused to actually find a GPS signal), I found that the scenic route was 30km longer in distance but supposedly only 9 minutes longer in time. Both routes would get me into Christchurch with plenty of time for my flight, so I was sold. The Inland Scenic Route it was.

What a great choice that was! It was great driving; there were very few cars going in either direction, and I only encountered one campervan that I needed to pass (who kindly pulled over before I had to overtake). The speed limit was the same as the highway and the only real slowdown I hit was a patch of roadworks that stretched for a few kilometers. Otherwise, the main slowdowns came from me stopping on the side of the road to take photos (which I had to limit so I didn’t end up being late).

I made two really interesting stops along the way. The first was before the turnoffs for Mount Hutt Village and Methven, and I stopped because I thought it would be a good opportunity to take photos of the mountains with some orange and red trees in front of them. I thought the campervan in front of me was stopping for the same reason, but it turned out that they’d spotted something that I hadn’t: a couple deer. These weren’t just any deer either — they were deer with some of the most impressive antlers I’ve seen in a long time. One had at least seven points!

My other stop was at Rakaia Gorge, where the waters of the Rakaia River flow underneath the Rakaia Gorge Bridge. As I drove downhill towards the bridge, there was a turnoff where I could stand and watch the river stretching before me. It reminded me very much of Hokitika Gorge on the West Coast in that it had a pearly baby blue colour that just doesn’t seem natural. It also had a very different appearance to most other rivers in Canterbury (and even from its own appearance further downstream) because it wasn’t braided — that is, running in very narrow streams across a vast area of rocky riverbed.

I tried to make a few other stops around Rakaia Gorge in search of a perfect viewpoint of the river, its bridge, and the mountains behind. My stop in a small carpark just after crossing the bridge was successful, and it gave me an amazing up-close view. I even saw the Discovery Jet, a jetboat ride that takes you through the gorge itself. My other stop, in the carpark for Discovery Jet where I hoped to get a view from river-level, was not so successful because the carpark was full of water. I was worried about taking my little car through it, so I turned around and continued towards Christchurch.

Soon, I found myself back in the outskirts of the city, filling up my car with petrol and preparing to return it before flying home. I was happy though, because by taking the Inland Scenic Route, I’d made the most of my last day in this beautiful country.

The Inland Scenic Route runs from Christchurch to Geraldine via Mount Hutt Village. From Christchurch, take SH73 to Darfield and then SH77 towards Mount Hutt. From Geraldine, take SH79 north and then turn left onto Geraldine-Arundel Drive, following the signs for the Inland Scenic Route.

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Day 9: Peppers Bluewater Resort

April 19, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

Everywhere I stayed on my trip around New Zealand was outstanding, but I was still pretty excited about staying at Peppers Bluewater Resort. It sounded like such a relaxing place to stay, and it really helped that plenty of people had raved about it to me before I got there. I would tend to agree with those people — I really enjoyed my time at Peppers and would definitely recommend it to anyone staying in Tekapo.

First of all, the location is fantastic. It wasn’t right on the water as I thought it might be, but rather, on the other side of the main highway. However, the entire resort is elevated above the level of the highway, giving the rooms in the front block of units (and some of the higher ones in the back blocks) stunning views all across Lake Tekapo. At sunrise, I stood on the balcony and watched red and orange outline the silhouettes of the mountains then saw the golden tussock all around me light up in the golden early morning light. It was a great consolation for having to be up that early in the first place!

You could walk to many places in Tekapo from the hotel, as it is situated only a few hundred meters down the main road from the village centre. The Church of the Good Shepherd is a bit further but is still easily walkable.

The service was outstanding as well. When I arrived, I had a plate of chocolates and various other goodies waiting for me on the table, along with a note describing all the different amenities the room had to offer (like an espresso machine!). They even provided me with a pair of binoculars for looking out at the surrounding area! Also, importantly for me, I was able to call reception at about 5am to sort out a replacement internet card (mine had expired).

The room itself had everything I needed, plus much, much more. I didn’t use the included espresso machine (so I couldn’t test their claim that 40s would give you the perfect coffee), nor did I use the TV or various other assorted electronics. I did try to use the air conditioner, without a lot of success (although I’m sure if I called reception they would have explained it to me). I wanted to leave it on a low heat overnight because Tekapo was a lot colder than my other destinations; however, it seemed like even when I put it on 28 degrees, it was still pumping out cold air. Obviously, I didn’t know which combination of buttons to hit to make it work like I wanted!

Everything I did use was great though — there was a huge coffee table for spreading out my array of cameras, memory cards, and hard drives that I had to transfer between each night and the couch was comfy. The bed itself was incredibly comfortable and had enough soft sheets and blankets on it that I wasn’t cold despite not being able to work out the heating situation. The bathroom came complete with bathtub and shower, and I could have stood under the shower for hours (especially after coming in freezing from the hot springs!).

Each morning, I ate at the breakfast buffet in the main reception/dining area. It was a typical buffet with both continental and hot breakfast options. They also had a wide array of juices, including kiwifruit juice (which was good in small amounts). Even if you’re not eating breakfast at the hotel, you should go to the patio outside the dining room just to see the reflections in the pond.

Overall, even though I was quite busy in Tekapo and didn’t get to spend a lot of time at Peppers, I really enjoyed my stay there. In combination with Tekapo Springs, it would be a perfect relaxing retreat from the grind of daily life.

Peppers Bluewater Resort is located on State Highway 8 in Tekapo. Rooms can be booked through Wotif.com.

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Day 8: Tekapo Springs

April 18, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

After following a jam-packed itinerary for eight days, I was excited about the prospect of spending a relaxing evening in the hot pools at Tekapo Springs. But before that, I was hoping to try out a few of the adventurous activities on offer, including tubing down the first summer tube track in New Zealand.

I ended up getting to Tekapo Springs slightly later than I’d planned, so I arrived just as the sun was setting. Sad that I’d probably missed the last of the tubing, I asked at reception if there was any chance that the track was still open. They weren’t sure, so they called over Mike, who handles marketing at the newly rebranded hot springs (which were previously known as Alpine Springs). He was very friendly and really interested in all the other things I’d been able to do in the area, so we had a great chat as he walked me around the facilities and over to the tube track.

This track, unlike the winter track where as many as six kids could fly down the hill at once, is designed for one tube. It goes down a pretty decent incline and has a few hairpin turns before you slowly slide to a halt. Because the surface isn’t all that slippery on its own, the tubes have to be painted with a film of lube to get them going…but boy, do they get some pace! After my first run, the guy working the tube ride said it was the fastest the track had been in a long time…so of course that meant we needed to go again, this time as a double (where we each held on to the other’s tube). The added weight gave us so much momentum that I thought we might go flying off the side! It was great fun though.

As I was putting on my helmet prior to the tube ride, Mike came over again and said an appointment had opened up at the day spa, and would I like to have an hour-long massage? The answer was a resounding yes! Since I finished on the tubes just before 6.30, I had time to hop in the pools for a quick soak before my treatment.

The three hot pools at Tekapo Springs are at three slightly different heights, so people in each pool can have unobscured views of Lake Tekapo both during the day and on nights where the full moon lights up the lake. All three are named after large lakes in the region. As you move further away from the lake, the pools get warmer, with the coolest being around 36C and the warmest around 40C. For my short soak, I chose Pukaki, the middle pool.

One thing I noticed about Tekapo Springs was the relatively small number of people there compared to Hanmer Springs. As a whole it was less crowded and quieter in the pools. I much preferred it this way.

When I jumped out of the pool to go to my massage, I also realised how much colder it was in Tekapo than it had been a few hundred kilometers to the northeast in Hanmer. Brrr! It wasn’t quite freezing, but it must have been close as my car was coated in a layer of ice the next morning.

The massage was exactly what I needed after eight days of very exciting, but somewhat tiring, travel. In an hour, Petra (a Slovenian trained as a physiotherapist) got rid of much of the tension in my back, neck, arms, and legs (yes, even my bad knee!) while we chatted about traveling around NZ. Afterwards, I was incredibly relaxed and thought the perfect way to follow it up would be with a nice long soak in the hot pools (something Petra wholeheartedly agreed with).

Even though I also had access to the many other facilities at the hot springs, including the ice rink and the saunas, I chose to spend the last hour before closing time switching between the two of the three hot pools. I wish I’d had more time to explore everything that Tekapo Springs has to offer, but I was perfectly content just lounging and trying to strike that perfect balance between the chill of the autumn air and the heat of the bubbling pools.

I found that Tekapo Springs struck the perfect balance between fun activities and relaxation. I would be perfectly happy spending an entire getaway to Tekapo here, especially in the winter when everything is coated in a fine layer of snow.

Tekapo Springs is located at 6 Lakeside Drive in Tekapo and is open from 10am-9pm daily.  The hot pools and Tahr Bar & Cafe are open year round, with the ice skating open from April to September. The summer tubing track is open from October-June and the snow tubing is open in the winter months.

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Day 8: Boating the Tasman Glacier Lake with Glacier Explorers

April 18, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

One thing that really stuck out to me on my itinerary when I first saw it was the Glacier Explorers trip on the Tasman Glacier lake. It’s something on my ‘travel bucket list’ — well, kayaking on a glacier lake is, but this is close enough. I was excited about getting the chance to get up close and personal with some icebergs.

Our guide was a bit concerned about my ability to even make it to the lake because the second leg of the trip, after the scenic drive through the Tasman Valley from Mount Cook Village, is a 1.5km walk over loose gravel. I was willing to give it a try because I really didn’t want to miss the experience and because my leg has held up pretty well on this trip.

The walk really wasn’t as bad as the guide made it out to be. The first half was on a decent path; the second half was on gravel but didn’t involve any sharp declines so I wasn’t concerned about slipping and falling. The scenery was amazing — there were mountains all around us but it still often seemed like we were in a sparse, almost lunar landscape because of all the loose moraine. Parts of it struck me as being very similar to the Tongariro Crossing, albeit with a lot more mountains.

Once there, we put our belongings we didn’t want to get wet in the shed (they pointed out there is a chance we would get wet, although it hadn’t happened in 18 years of boating the lake). Then we were handed our lifejackets and divided up into the three boats that would be heading out.

Unlike Lakes Tekapo and Pukaki, which are glacier-fed lakes, the Tasman Glacier lake is a dull grey colour because there is still such a high concentration of rock flour in the lake. In fact, our guide pointed out that one iceberg hadn’t moved in a month and they suspect the reason is because it got stuck on some rock flour which glued it to the bottom.

The first order of business once the boat had drifted out onto the murky greyness was the safety briefing, which was pretty standard except for the first point. Our guide asked us to put our hands in the water until he counted to ten, and then veeeery slowly began counting.  By the time ten came around, I was quite uncomfortable — not surprising, given the water is 1C at most. This did a very good job of showing us why we shouldn’t be trying to swim in the lake (although I would have been willing to take his word for it, given it’s a lake with icebergs in it).

As we motored around the lake, we learned all sorts of interesting facts about the Tasman Glacier and its terminal lake. The glacier is currently 27km in length but is receding up the valley at a pace of about 300m per year. The lake is a product of the recession of the glacier; the wall of moraine that holds it in at the far end marks the length of the glacier just before the lake formed (6km further down the valley from its current terminal face).

Near where we launched at the end of the lake, we pulled up around a few icebergs and were given the chance to touch the smooth ice. Some of us broke off pieces so we could taste iceberg water; we were told it would taste a bit like dirt due to all the suspended rock particles but I thought it tasted nice and fresh.

Then we sped over to the other side of the lake, taking in the spectacular views of Aoraki/Mount Cook and all of the other mountains in Mount Cook National Park. Once we stopped near the terminal face and our wake dissipated, the water was glass and perfectly reflective of the mountains beyond.

Even though the glacier is much smaller than it used to be, it’s still a very impressive natural phenomenon. We weren’t allowed too close because there can be large events of ice shearing off where the only warning is a huge cracking noise before ice comes bubbling out of the water underneath the glacier. Our guide has been on the lake when this happened and said it’s perfectly safe — provided you’re not too close in the first place.

Unsuspectingly, our guide saved the best for last. As we sat near the glacier, he watched an iceberg roll and quickly made his way over to it. The ice was still a brilliant blue colour, which you can only see in the first few hours after a roll as it becomes more and more white. The sunlight sparkled through it, only blocked by the myriad of rock particles suspended inside. It was beautiful and we were so fortunate to be able to see it.

After about an hour, we pulled back up to the dock to prepare for our walk back to the bus (which I thought was even better than the walk in because we could see Mount Cook towering over us). As we pulled into the dock, our guide told us to pretend we’re excited and make a lot of noise for the people in the other boats. I certainly didn’t have to pretend — I was very excited! It was so different from anything I had done before, and to be honest, I was happy I was in a boat rather than a kayak because we got to see much more than we would have otherwise.

Glacier Explorers is based in the Hermitage Hotel in Mount Cook Village and does multiple trips to the Tasman Glacier lake daily.

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Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight

April 17, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

 

On the drive to Tekapo, I was very concerned that my scenic flight with Air Safaris wouldn’t happen, or if it did, that we wouldn’t see very much because of the heavy rain and low cloud. Then something amazing happened — I turned a corner and the clouds just parted, which is apparently a pretty common occurrence around the Tekapo region. By the time I reached the airport, it was picture perfect.

The Air Safaris pilots agreed that it was a perfect day for flying so the four of us followed our pilot, Isaac, out to the plane (a Gippsland Aeronautics GA8). After being given a safety briefing and being told this was one of the safest planes we could fly on, we loaded into the plane. One major advantage of flying in a plane rather than a helicopter is that everyone is guaranteed a window seat, whereas only a few people are that lucky in a helicopter. Our windows were really quite large so we had a huge range of view.

Once we were belted and ready to go, we taxied to the end of the runway. Our pilot said that we needed to wait there for a while because when it’s colder, the plane takes a little while to warm up. I think we were all perfectly happy for him to wait as long as necessary!

Soon, we were in the air, flying over the chocolate-coloured tussock of the Mackenzie Basin. We slowly looped around the town of Tekapo and then, as we slowly gained altitude, headed north along the deep blue lake. Because the seat on the other side of the aisle was empty and I had a great view out that window as well, it was hard to tell where to look. Everywhere there was something new to look at — from the braided Godley River feeding into Lake Tekapo to the high country sheep stations to Lake Alexandria. All the while, our pilot was giving us a running commentary on what we are seeing and why these places are the way they are. For instance, Lake Tekapo gets its very unique colour from ‘rock flour,’ rocks that the glaciers feed into the lake grind up as they slowly move.

The first large mountain we saw was Mount Sibbald, which is separated from the main body of the Southern Alps by the Godley River. Even though it’s not part of the main range, Isaac pointed out that at 2811m, it’s still higher than any peaks on the North Island.

From there, we turned towards the West and began heading through the Southern Alps, where it seemed like everything just increased in size and majesty. All around us were glaciers, such as the Murchison and Hooker Glaciers, snow, and high mountain peaks.

The trip across to the West Coast got a bit bumpy, as is usually the case when flying over big mountains. The plane lurched up and down and side to side a few times but Isaac assured us that everything was perfectly normal. He was keen to fly on the West Coast side for as long as possible because the afternoon light was so nice on that side, but he was concerned it might be too bumpy for our comfort; fortunately, the air around us played nice.

I felt like a bit of a broken record, saying “woooow!” every time something new came into view. The conditions really seemed perfect — the afternoon light played on the Pacific Ocean and tufts of cloud floated around the mountain peaks to make them just that little bit more scenic (as if they weren’t enough already)! Further down the valleys, you could see the heavy cloud that so often coats the West Coast, but it was far enough down we could still see the glaciers.

The glaciers were something to truly marvel at, with all of the cracks and bright blue crevasses. We couldn’t get as close to them as you would in a helicopter, but I was fine with that — my view meant that I could see the details on the glaciers and a lot more!

It was such a clear day that, as well as seeing New Zealand’s two highest peaks in Mount Cook/Aoraki and Mount Tasman, we could also see as far south as Mount Aspiring in Wanaka.

The tall peaks were incredibly impressive. Snow was being lifted up and away from Mount Tasman in a plume. Mount Cook was imposing and covered in snow and rocky outcrops. I couldn’t imagine being one of the people that had conquered that peak — it all seemed much easier to just see it out of the window of an airplane!

All too soon, we had to head away from the Alps and back towards Tekapo. On the way, we flew over the Tasman Glacier, New Zealand’s largest glacier, and saw the little icebergs dotting the terminal lake (which I will be boating around tomorrow)! Then we were back over the Mackenzie Basin and again marveling at the colours, rivers, and lakes that dot the region before Isaac expertly landed the plane back at Tekapo Airport.

All in all, I believe we were up in the air for over 45 minutes. It was an absolutely fantastic flight and one I would get on again in a heartbeat. I had been a bit concerned about the bumpiness of the ride, but aside from the turbulence I’d mentioned, it was smooth and unconcerning. Plus, the views out the window are enough to take your mind off pretty much anything!

Air Safaris operate multiple flights daily out of Tekapo and Franz Josef Airports and have offices in these townships. The flight I did was the ‘Grand Traverse.’

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Instagram - Fox Glacier

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Day 7: Akaroa Criterion Motel

April 17, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

After a hair-raising jetboat ride and a very filling salmon lunch at The Trading Rooms, I was ready to have somewhere to put my feet up when I arrived at the Akaroa Criterion Motel. Luckily, it was a great place to do so!

I met the owners, David and Gabrielle, when I checked in. They were both very friendly and helpful — and they also let me know that while there were other guests in the hotel that night, I would be the only guest the following night. This was because the hotel was about to close for six weeks to undertake major renovations.

When I saw my room, I was surprised that the hotel needed renovations. It was very light and airy and everything seemed to be in good order. Importantly, as I was on the second floor, the room had a great view over the tops of the waterfront houses to Akaroa Harbour beyond. All twelve of the rooms in the hotel offer these views, as the first floor is only used for covered parking.

The room itself was a studio apartment, consisting of a kitchen, bathroom, bed, lounge area, and balcony. I really enjoyed the lounge area because I could sit looking out on the harbour with the balcony door open, listening to birds squawking and water slowly lapping at the shore. It was definitely a significant improvement on my desk at home!

Fairly soon after I checked in, Gabrielle arrived with my continental breakfast for the next morning so I could have it at my leisure rather than trying to rush to squeeze it in before my dolphin swim. It was a healthy meal of cornflakes, sliced peaches, and toast with orange juice — filling, but light enough to not cause any problems with seasickness!

I had no trouble at all sleeping at the hotel — Akaroa itself is quiet enough, there wasn’t any noise at all around Rue Jolie, where the Criterion Motel is located. The bed was very comfortable and, after having been a bit cold in Hanmer Springs, I was happy to be able to set the heater to high to keep the room nice and toasty warm.

I found the hotel to be very well situated within Akaroa. It’s on the side of Akaroa near Daly’s Wharf, which is roughly a five-minute walk from the side of town with the Main Wharf that houses Black Cat Cruises and the Blue Pearl Centre. It was only a one-block walk to the waterfront, which offered great photo opportunities at all times of day.

By far, the most memorable event from my stay at the hotel was arriving home after dinner at Ma Maison. There were three fire trucks parked out the front of the hotel — luckily I’d been warned this didn’t actually mean there was a fire — and there was a steady stream of firefighters carrying all sorts of furniture downstairs to the large storage container in the parking lot. They were quite efficient and left reasonably early…and importantly, they left all my furniture where it belonged!

I had a very comfortable stay at the Akaroa Criterion Motel and would love to go back to see the results of their renovations…and to spend a few more evenings with my feet up while watching the sun set over Akaroa Harbour!

The Akaroa Criterion Motel is located at 75 Rue Jolie, Akaroa. They will be reopening on 8 June 2012. Rooms can be booked through Wotif.com.

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Day 6: Dinner at Ma Maison Restaurant and Bar

April 16, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

Despite the fact the guide on my sea kayaking trip, Kevin, said that Akaroa is not actually that French (and being a Frenchman, he would know), I was still looking forward to having a good French meal while in the small harbour town. I hoped that, with a name like Ma Maison, my restaurant for this evening would have at least some of the French food I craved on the menu.

When I arrived, I got a bit of a shock — Kevin was actually one of the waiters at the restaurant as well! That made the restaurant immediately more friendly and it was nice having a familiar face around while I was dining on my own.

Once I had my menu, it didn’t take long for me to choose what I wanted. There was not much French food on the menu, surprisingly, but I’d found exactly what I wanted — I was going to have duck a l’orange for my main and a crepe suzette for dessert. I felt like my parents would be a little bit jealous, especially since my mother and I share a love of crepes. I had no idea what wine would be best with the duck, so Kevin said that if I trusted him he would choose for me. This choice turned out to be a lovely pinot noir from Chard Farm in Central Otago.

The restaurant itself seats a fair number of people but seems small and cozy. It has a great outdoor area where you can have lunch or a few happy hour drinks while looking out towards Daly’s Wharf and across the harbour. Aside from Truby’s, which someone recommended to me as having outstanding views and great fish & chips, this has to be one of the best places to get an unobscured view of Akaroa and its harbour.

Kevin had warned me it would take about thirty minutes to prepare the duck, but it didn’t seem to take too long…and in any case, even if it had taken an hour to prepare, it would have been completely worth it. It was surrounded with two sauces (one an orange cacao sauce) and a sweet potato puree, all of which had a unique, delicious taste to them. The duck was cooked to perfection, with the skin lovely and crisp while the breast was still succulent, and it was on a bed of what looked like red cabbage but had the most divine orange taste. I made sure that I didn’t leave a drop of sauce or a scrap of food on the plate!

The dessert crepe was just the right size and had a lovely orange taste to it as well, mixed with both cream and ice cream. Complementing it was a cup of vanilla and raspberry tea.

So while Ma Maison was not quite the French eatery I was expecting, I would still highly recommend it, both for the sheer beauty of its location and for the lovely food. Eating there was a great way to end a fantastic day in Akaroa.

Ma Maison is located at 2 Rue Jolie in Akaroa, near the boat ramp at Daly’s Wharf. They open at 10am and serve breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

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Day 6: Sea Kayaking with Pohatu Adventures

April 16, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

 

Today was all about seeing the local wildlife — this morning saw me taking a trip out into the harbour to swim with dolphins, and this afternoon saw me heading to Pohatu Marine Reserve in Flea Bay to see white-flippered little penguins. I was pretty excited about this, having only seen a few penguins in their natural habitat before.

The trip across to Flea Bay involved navigating a high pass on a gravel road. The views from the top across to both Flea Bay and Akaroa were stunning, as seems to be the norm for NZ! We didn’t have time on the way over to take photos, but on the way back I got to snap some beautiful shots looking down on Akaroa Harbour from above.

Once we arrived, I met the couple I would be kayaking with and my guide, Kevin. Because I was on my own, I would be in Kevin’s boat, which worked out well because I couldn’t use the left pedal in the kayak due to the position it put my knee in. Plus, he didn’t mind occasionally padding while I tried to snap a few photos!

Our trip started with paddling up the northern side of the bay, where the penguins make their home. The owners of the land here have put out plenty of artificial nests as part of a program to get the penguins breeding; apparently when they first put them out, they didn’t put enough and all the penguins started fighting over them! A very interesting thing about these nests is that they aren’t along the shoreline as you might expect; the penguins travel as far up as a copse of trees on top of a hill over 200m high, and they can travel as far as 700m inland as well.

Soon we were spotting more penguins than I ever thought I’d see. Hidden in amongst the rocks were quite a few groups of 2-4 penguins, peering out at us and wondering what to make of the giant yellow things outside their lairs. Occasionally one of the pied shags preening themselves on the rocks would stop, disdainfully look down at us, have a poo, and continue grooming.

Before we reached the end of the bay, we got to paddle a little way into a cave dug out of the soft volcanic rock by the relentless battering from the sea. I felt so small in comparison to what seemed like a giant cave. I couldn’t marvel for too long though because soon we were having to back out to make sure the swell didn’t push us too far into the cave.

Kevin thought it would be a good idea to say hi to the Pacific and I agreed, so we continued padding until we were well and truly in the waves of the ocean. For the second time today, I was treated to the view of the Banks Peninsula looking in. There were islands that had broken off the mainland and many larger caves than the one we had just been in.

The hardest work of the tour definitely came when we were paddling across the bay. Because Kevin wanted to make sure the other kayak didn’t get too far behind, he had tied a tow rope to it. I really noticed the weight when my out-of-shape arms were burning from pushing the paddle through the water! The crossing didn’t take all that long though and soon we were facing back into the bay and letting the waves carry us in.

There is a great divide between the animals in Flea Bay. As I said, the penguins live on the northern side — all but 70 of the 1063 mating pairs that lived there during the last census (as a side note, the census takes place every 4 years; the next one will be at the end of the year and they are looking for people to help count). The southern side is mostly inhabited by New Zealand fur seals. As we reached the area that Kevin said was the colony, we could only see one or two seals. I was thinking that it was a pretty small colony until we got around a rocky outcrop and could see them everywhere! Pups were splashing around in rock pools and adorably trying to scramble up rocks towards their mothers, while the adults lounged on the rocks looking as bored as possible.

Eventually Kevin pried us away from the seals by pointing out a line of white in the water. That line of white was not sea foam…it was a line of around 80 white flippered penguins, having what he described as their “happy hour.” In the late afternoon, they often gather on the water to socialise before night falls. I was amazed. I knew that they had said there were over 1000 mating pairs, but to see even 80 at one time was so cool. We made our way over to them, careful not to get too close or to make too much noise, and just watched as they floated this way and that, eventually dividing up into three distinct groups that floated off in different directions. What a way to end our trip!

Pohatu Adventures operates many tours around Flea Bay, including 1- and 2-day trips. Their kayaking tours run in the afternoon when weather permits and evening penguin tours are also available.

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