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    • Day 1: arrival in Christchurch
    • Day 1: dinner at Hislops Cafe
    • Day 2 : Whale Watch Kaikoura
    • Day 2: Maurice’s Maori Tours Kaikoura
    • Day 2: Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments
    • Day 2: White Morph Restaurant
    • Day 3: Cafe Encounter
    • Day 3: Kaikoura lookouts
    • Day 3: Pegasus Bay Winery
    • Day 3: The Alpine Pacific Triangle
    • Day 3: Hanmer Springs Spa & thermal pools
    • Day 4: Powerhouse Cafe
    • Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting
    • Day 4: Mountain Biking without the Biking
    • Day 4: Hanmer Springs thermal pools
    • Day 5: Akaroa Jet Adventure
    • Day 5: Heritage Hanmer Springs
    • Day 5: An accidental drive through Christchurch
    • Day 6: Attempting to swim with Dolphins
    • Day 6: Sea Kayaking with Pohatu Adventures
    • Day 6: Dinner at Ma Maison Restaurant & Bar
    • Day 7: Akaroa Criterion Motel
    • Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight
    • Day 7: The Giant Jersey & the Medieval Mosaic
    • Day 7: A Quick Stop in Geraldine
    • Day 7: Earth & Sky Tour
    • Day 8: Glacier Explorers
    • Day 8: Tekapo Springs
    • Day 9: Peppers Bluewater Resort
    • Day 9: The Church of the Good Shepherd
    • Day 9: The Inland Scenic Route
    • Looking back on my time in Canterbury
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Day 3: Cafe Encounter

April 13, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

The Encounter building in Kaikoura is well-known as being the starting point for the highly popular Dolphin Encounter, a tour where intrepid travelers can jump into the cold waters of the Pacific and swim with massive pods of dusky dolphins. However, Encounter also houses a top-notch cafe that is well worth an early wake up call so you can grab a bite (or even just a coffee) before your tour.

Encounter was buzzing when I walked over from the Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments (which were only a couple hundred meters away). Luckily, this buzz was from people milling about and waiting for their 8.30am dolphin swim to start, which meant that there was a bit of a lull in the cafe. This meant I didn’t have to wait long at the counter to place my order and there were plenty of tables to choose from. I chose to go outside and sat at a prime table that was as close to the ocean as possible (and importantly, covered by an umbrella as it was a very sunny day).

It was such a relaxing spot to sit, especially once my mango tea arrived. I sat sipping my tea while I looked out at the ocean, ever restless and pummeling the black, pebbly shoreline with its waves. The snow on top of the mountains, only just fallen in the last few days, glistened in the brilliant sunshine. I wanted to sit and enjoy the day rather than eating and then hitting the road, but I also knew I had plenty more in store for me on my trip that I could only do if I left Kaikoura.

Because I had the shade of the umbrella, I got out my laptop and could actually see the screen! This meant I could put a few finishing touches on a blog post before my breakfast arrived. Someone walked by and asked me if I knew where she could buy wireless internet, but I couldn’t give her an answer; she eventually came back and let me know that wireless access cards could be purchased at the front desk for as little as $2.

As content as I was being there, I was still happy when my breakfast arrived. It was eggs florentine served with wilted spinach, a toasted muffin, and salad, and it really hit the spot. One thing I look for in poached eggs is for them to be slightly runny so I can mix the egg with the rest of my breakfast — and these were exactly that.

All too soon, I had to pack away my gear and start my drive to the Waipara Valley, but I’m very glad I had the chance to start my day at Cafe Encounter.

Cafe Encounter is located in the Encounter building at 96 Esplanade, Kaikoura. They are open from 7am-5pm in the summer and from 7.30am-4.30pm in the winter. Breakfast is served until 11am.

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Day 2: stay at Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

As I write this post, the sun is coming up over the Pacific Ocean and bringing an absolutely stunning day to Kaikoura. The clouds have completely cleared so, from my viewpoint on the balcony, I finally get to the see the amazing view these apartments were designed to point towards.

Even though I haven’t spent a lot of time in my apartment at the Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my time here. For one, you really can’t beat the view. There’s plenty of places where you can see the snowcapped Seaward Kaikoura Ranges in Kaikoura, but it was so convenient that I could take sunrise photos of them without leaving my room!

I love hearing the sound of the ocean as I fall asleep, and even with the door closed to keep the heat in, I could just hear the roar of the waves running through the black rocks of the beach. It was just enough to lull me into a peaceful sleep in the comfortable bed (which even had electric blankets on it in case the heater wasn’t quite enough).

One of my concerns about coming to New Zealand was making sure that I packed enough to be warm, but because of this heater, I didn’t have to worry about that in my apartment. I could crank the temperature up to whatever comfortable level I wanted while I sat on the couch and blogged.

The apartment was very nicely appointed and was a bit large for just me (given that it actually had a second bedroom with two single beds). It had SkyTV, a big sofa lounge, and a full kitchen as well, so it would be perfect for a couple or a family getaway.

And the balcony. Oh, the balcony. Probably my favourite place in the apartment. If it hadn’t been a bit nippy, I probably would have sat out there with my computer at night. I was even able to take a few night long exposure shots of the mountains by setting up my tripod there.

I had quite a few good chats with Graeme, one of the owners, particularly when I went down to refill my internet allowance (available as a secured network for $1/mb, purchasable in various increments). He was very interested to hear about my experiences in Kaikoura so far and we had a good chat that ranged from ocean fishing (which he enjoys) to how frustrating their Burmese cat can be (and being an owner of a rather difficult cat, I completely understood!).

I’ve mentioned the location a few times with regards to the mountains and the beach, but it’s also very convenient to activities in the area. It’s a short walk over to the encounter… complex, where you can eat at Cafe Encounter, swim with dolphins, or go on an a trip out into the ocean to find the local albatrosses. White Morph, one of the most highly recommended restaurants in Kaikoura, is just next door to this. A short drive will take you into the main street of town, or in the opposite direction, to the seal colony (although it would be hard to find a place in Kaikoura that isn’t a short drive from anywhere).

Overall, I had a great time here and felt very welcomed. If you are looking for a place to stay in Kaikoura, it would be hard to go wrong with the Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments.

The Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments are located at 126 Esplanade. Rooms can be booked through Wotif.com.

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Day 2: Maurice’s Maori Tours Kaikoura

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

When someone mentions a Maori tour, it usually brings to mind thoughts of mass tours in Rotorua that consist of a performance following a hangi. Maurice’s Maori Tour in Kaikoura is completely different from these tours. Rather than being performed for, you are brought into the culture. Rather than being treated like a tourist, you are treated like family. It is a personal, entertaining, and informative tour that everyone I’ve talked to in Kaikoura (and even a Twitter follower in Singapore) has raved about, and I am going to too.

I could tell that Maurice was going to be an interesting guide from the get go. He’s full of life and you can tell that he loves what he does because he’s having fun. Just one instance of him having fun? He proudly introduced our second guide, Karen, as being from the “troublemaker tribe.”

The first place that they took us was to the Maori pa on the Kaikoura peninsula. Here, rather than just telling us about the traditions of the Maori, we were able to witness them in action. One of the highlights was learning how to introduce ourselves.

 

Introducing yourself isn’t simply a case of shaking hands and saying your name. Instead, you first talk about your mountain — either the mountain closest to your home or the one you identify with the most strongly. Then you tell of your river, then your canoe (or whatever mode of transport you feel most strongly about), then your tribe, and then your first name. This resulted in the following introduction for me:

“My mountain is Mt. Coot-tha in the inner suburbs of Brisbane. My river is the Brisbane River, so beautiful and muddy. My canoe is the Qantas flight that brought me to Australia when I moved there four years ago. My tribe is Repsher, originally Rebscher, which loosely means person that picks grapes off vines in German. My name is Kristin.”

During a thoroughly entertaining discussion that included all of us being given our own Maori names, Maurice introduced us to the song that we were going to learn by the end of the tour. This was written out with English pronunciations on a laminated card for each of us. We all took a few stumbling steps towards learning it before heading back to the van to briefly stop at the marae, the traditional meeting house for Maurice and Karen’s tribe. We then continued on to the carvings at South Bay.

The carvings, including one of Maui pulling the North Island from the water, brought with them another round of stories. Then we got to do what turned out to be a highlight for many: the weaving. While Maurice was telling us about the carvings, Karen was collecting flax for weaving into flowers. Her deft fingers nimbly moved the leaves around, and we all clumsily followed along until we all had pretty flowers too. Everyone was incredibly proud of their artwork!

Our next stop was for morning tea at Maurice’s house, where we all introduced ourselves in the proper way to his wife Heather and his two grandsons, who introduced themselves completely in Maori (as Maurice and Karen had done). Being there and sharing their food really added to the feeling that we really were being treated as family.

Every time we had been in the van, we practiced the song that Maurice gave us at the pa. His living room was where we got to put on our grand performance; we all sat in a circle singing as Maurice strummed his guitar. It was yet another thing for us to be proud of, especially because Heather said we were the best group she’d heard today!

Our final stop was in the Puhi Puhi Valley to the north of Kaikoura. This valley was a target of loggers in the early 1900s but some parts, such as the forest near the children’s school (the only evidence of which is a foundation) are still just as they were. It was here that we got to immerse ourselves in the natural side of Maori culture, learning about leaves and trees and their significance to the Maori people. We saw some very impressive trees, including totaras that were hundreds of years old. At the base of a few of these trees, we stopped and sang our song again.

I can’t, in a single blog entry, give justice to just what a great tour this was. The details we were given about all sorts of events and legends would easily be three or four times the length of this post if I wrote them down — and that’s just the ones I can remember! Yet the tour was great not because we were given all this information, but because of the way it was imparted. Maurice and Karen are very proud of their culture and are very willing to share it with everyone and they should be proud of the way they do it.

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Day 2: Whale Watch Kaikoura

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

Today got off to a very inauspicious start when I found out that a low mist had enveloped Kaikoura overnight, which caused all early-morning whale watches to be cancelled. This meant that, while I was eating a hearty bacon & egg breakfast at Flukes Cafe, I was trying to mentally work out if a later whale watch would fit into my schedule for the day. However, this concern turned out to be for naught when I realised I was working off the wrong version of the schedule — turns out my whale watch wasn’t until 1.15pm anyway!

By the time 1.15 rolled around, the clouds were still low over the mountains but it was all blue sky and sunshine at the beachside area where Whale Watch Kaikoura is based. After a short safety briefing, we all loaded up into a bus for a drive to the other side of the Kaikoura peninsula, where we met our home for the next few hours — the catamaran Paikea. Those who have seen the film Whale Rider may recognise this name because Paikea is the whale rider; according to Maori myth, after the canoe he was riding in sunk, he grabbed ahold of a whale who took him all the way south to New Zealand.

Paikea must have been a lot better at handling seasickness than the people n board his namesake, because a few faces started to turn a bit green as soonas we headed out into the 1.5m swell. We were told that we were lucky because the whales seen earlier in the day were only six miles from shore, but that six miles was quite unsettling to some (including me). However, once they announced that a sperm whale was visible on the port side, I did my best to forget it and herded outside.

Whale Watch Kaikoura’s boats are quite well designed, in that there never seemed to be anyone clambering for space in front of other people. Everyone stood single file along the side of the vessel (and on top) and admired the giant of the sea as he caught his breath. As we learned from the talk on the way out, sperm whales only stay on the surface for between 5-10 minutes before they do a deep dive and disappear for up to an hour, and we caught this one at the end of his trip to the surface. This means we only had a minute or two before he took one final breath and dove, giving us a great view of his tail as he gracefully disappeared beneath the water (and I really liked that about the sperm whale — unlike the humpback, if you see a sperm whale here, you’re almost guaranteed to see his tail).

We were lucky enough to spot two other whales, both of which had only just come to the surface when we reached them. One was Tiaki, a very large whale and a very well-known one around Kaikoura. Both happily hung out at the surface, giving us nice blow photos (or at least, you think they’re nice until you realise you’re taking photos of whale snot) before eventually disappearing back into Kaikoura Canyon again. I’ve seen whales a few times now in Queensland, but I still just stand in awe at how truly large some creatures are (and how graceful they are in spite of it!).

Kaikoura Canyon is what makes this area home to such a rich population of sea life. Not far from the shore of the peninsula, the ocean drops to over 1300m deep, creating a trench full of nutrients that the smallest sea life lives on. Because they flourish, so do the larger animals that hunt them, thus the presence of animals like the sperm whale and the orca.

After seeing the three whales, our captain took us closer to shore in an attempt to find other sea and bird life to entertain us with. It didn’t take long — we very quickly came across a flock of sea birds floating in the swell. These included a few shy albatrosses and a Westland petrel. Then we hit the jackpot when we came upon a small pod of dusky dolphins who frolicked in front of our bow as we moved slowly along. When we moved a bit to the north, we found ourselves smack in the middle of a pod of 200 dolphins. All around us they were splashing, spinning in circles around one another under the water, and doing flips for our entertainment. They were happy and showing it, and in turn, we were happy.

Eventually, we turned back to shore, and while I was sad to leave the dolphins and whales behind, my stomach was certainly very happy to be back on dry land. But even if it meant another bout of near-seasickness, would I go out with Whale Watch Kaikoura again? In a heartbeat.

Whale Watch Kaikoura is located at The Whaleway Station, Whaleway Road, near the Kaikoura train station. Whale watch tours are available from $145 ($60 for children). Up to 7 tours depart daily.

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Day 1: dinner at Hislops Cafe

April 11, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s not often that you walk into a restaurant and think “wow, this feels like home.” That’s how I felt when I walked into Hislops Wholefoods Cafe in Kaikoura. It didn’t feel like my home, per se, but an idealised version of home where you are cozy and surrounded by the flickering light of a burning fireplace. It was warm and welcoming.

I felt like many of the options on the menu fit right in with this ideal; many would have been perfect meals to finish a cold winter’s day. However, that wasn’t quite what I expected. Although I knew that Hislops specialised in organic wholefoods, I thought there would be more of a seafood selection given its location. There was one platter for 2-3 people with all the seafood you could want, but nothing on the single order menu. I’m not complaining though — after transitioning from sunny Queensland to more autumnal temperatures, I was in the mood for something hearty to warm me up.

And hearty my meal was. I ended up choosing the organic lamb steaks served on a corn and leek brown rice risotto. It was filling and had a lovely flavour to it, especially the lamb. It was just the right portion size as well (mainly because I had enough room for dessert)!

Dessert was very quick to arrive and was a divine citrus bread and butter pudding. The tang from the citrus really added to the standard bread & butter pudding, and to top it off with caramel…well let’s just say I enjoyed every bite, even if I couldn’t quite finish it!

Something I found quite interesting was the number of products that were on sale throughout the cafe. As often happens, the artwork adorning the walls was from a local gallery; I thought the scenes of vineyards and trampers were beautiful and fit in perfectly with the decor. The other products were various organics, from pure organic honey (oh, so tempting) to bags of flour (which, according to their website, are milled on the Hislop family property). It was these that inspired my waitress, a traveler from Estonia, to work at Hislops, where she has been working for seven months (quite a long time for a person on a year-long working holiday visa)!

Overall, I really enjoyed my dinner at Hislops Cafe, and I would definitely eat there again (especially if I got to try the other meal I was considering — seared wild venison)!

Hislops Wholefoods Cafe is located at 33 Beach Road, Kaikoura. They are open from 9am every day in the summer. In winter they are closed on Tuesdays & Wednesdays.

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Day 1: arrival in Christchurch

April 11, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

Even though the Southern Alps block most of the rain coming across the Tasman Sea, giving Canterbury a reasonably dry climate, it was pouring rain when I arrived in Christchurch this afternoon. This didn’t dampen my enthusiasm at all, nor did it wipe the silly grin off my face. I kept thinking that I’m in New Zealand, and whether it’s raining or sunny, it’s still New Zealand, the setting for what is going to be a fantastic trip.

Plus, I think it would be difficult not to be excited after standing in line at Christchurch Airport immigration. No, I’m not being sarcastic; the imagery they display on video screens all around the immigration hall is stunning, and it’s only a car drive away if you want to see those places for yourself. I think it was a great idea — it certainly kept my mind off the tediousness of waiting in line.

Soon after I’d met up with the lovely Kelly from Canterbury Tourism, I had a rental car and was on my way. The outskirts of Christchurch passed by in a flash and I was soon on the highway heading north to Kaikoura, a small coastal town known for its diverse wildlife population and its snowcapped mountain backdrop.

Even though it was raining steadily and the clouds were down, I found the scenery very striking. It occurred to me that it seemed very much like English countryside with its rolling farmland and fields full of spotted cows and soggy sheep; this thought was echoed by a friend on Twitter who said one of my photos looked “like the Lincolnshire wolds.” I found this very fitting given that Christchurch is often said to be the most English of all Kiwi cities!

As I approached the Waipara region, the trees became noticeably more colourful, especially around rivers and streams. Swathes of trees were ablaze in reds, oranges, and golds, which I loved, having lived in the land of the gum tree for so long. I can only hope that there is a bit of blue sky on my way back through so I can capture them in their true glory.

The other noticeable addition around Waipara were the vineyards. Luscious, deep purple grapes were just visible under the ubiquitous vineyard netting. Luckily, I get to go back and taste some of the wines made from those grapes on Friday.

The rolling hills seemed to get larger and more imposing as I moved north. I didn’t realise quite how large those “hills” really were until the road started winding towards the coast. The turns became hairpins and the recommended speeds got lower and lower as the sky grew darker. And then, as soon as it began, the twisting was gone and I was on the coast. When I opened my window I could just hear, over the windscreen wipers and the rain, the roar of the ocean smashing into the loose black rocks that litter the coastline near the Kaikoura peninsula. And as I watched and listened to the waves foaming along the coastline, that silly grin from Christchurch crept back onto my face. I’m in New Zealand!

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