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    • Day 1: arrival in Christchurch
    • Day 1: dinner at Hislops Cafe
    • Day 2 : Whale Watch Kaikoura
    • Day 2: Maurice’s Maori Tours Kaikoura
    • Day 2: Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments
    • Day 2: White Morph Restaurant
    • Day 3: Cafe Encounter
    • Day 3: Kaikoura lookouts
    • Day 3: Pegasus Bay Winery
    • Day 3: The Alpine Pacific Triangle
    • Day 3: Hanmer Springs Spa & thermal pools
    • Day 4: Powerhouse Cafe
    • Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting
    • Day 4: Mountain Biking without the Biking
    • Day 4: Hanmer Springs thermal pools
    • Day 5: Akaroa Jet Adventure
    • Day 5: Heritage Hanmer Springs
    • Day 5: An accidental drive through Christchurch
    • Day 6: Attempting to swim with Dolphins
    • Day 6: Sea Kayaking with Pohatu Adventures
    • Day 6: Dinner at Ma Maison Restaurant & Bar
    • Day 7: Akaroa Criterion Motel
    • Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight
    • Day 7: The Giant Jersey & the Medieval Mosaic
    • Day 7: A Quick Stop in Geraldine
    • Day 7: Earth & Sky Tour
    • Day 8: Glacier Explorers
    • Day 8: Tekapo Springs
    • Day 9: Peppers Bluewater Resort
    • Day 9: The Church of the Good Shepherd
    • Day 9: The Inland Scenic Route
    • Looking back on my time in Canterbury
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Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight

April 17, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

 

On the drive to Tekapo, I was very concerned that my scenic flight with Air Safaris wouldn’t happen, or if it did, that we wouldn’t see very much because of the heavy rain and low cloud. Then something amazing happened — I turned a corner and the clouds just parted, which is apparently a pretty common occurrence around the Tekapo region. By the time I reached the airport, it was picture perfect.

The Air Safaris pilots agreed that it was a perfect day for flying so the four of us followed our pilot, Isaac, out to the plane (a Gippsland Aeronautics GA8). After being given a safety briefing and being told this was one of the safest planes we could fly on, we loaded into the plane. One major advantage of flying in a plane rather than a helicopter is that everyone is guaranteed a window seat, whereas only a few people are that lucky in a helicopter. Our windows were really quite large so we had a huge range of view.

Once we were belted and ready to go, we taxied to the end of the runway. Our pilot said that we needed to wait there for a while because when it’s colder, the plane takes a little while to warm up. I think we were all perfectly happy for him to wait as long as necessary!

Soon, we were in the air, flying over the chocolate-coloured tussock of the Mackenzie Basin. We slowly looped around the town of Tekapo and then, as we slowly gained altitude, headed north along the deep blue lake. Because the seat on the other side of the aisle was empty and I had a great view out that window as well, it was hard to tell where to look. Everywhere there was something new to look at — from the braided Godley River feeding into Lake Tekapo to the high country sheep stations to Lake Alexandria. All the while, our pilot was giving us a running commentary on what we are seeing and why these places are the way they are. For instance, Lake Tekapo gets its very unique colour from ‘rock flour,’ rocks that the glaciers feed into the lake grind up as they slowly move.

The first large mountain we saw was Mount Sibbald, which is separated from the main body of the Southern Alps by the Godley River. Even though it’s not part of the main range, Isaac pointed out that at 2811m, it’s still higher than any peaks on the North Island.

From there, we turned towards the West and began heading through the Southern Alps, where it seemed like everything just increased in size and majesty. All around us were glaciers, such as the Murchison and Hooker Glaciers, snow, and high mountain peaks.

The trip across to the West Coast got a bit bumpy, as is usually the case when flying over big mountains. The plane lurched up and down and side to side a few times but Isaac assured us that everything was perfectly normal. He was keen to fly on the West Coast side for as long as possible because the afternoon light was so nice on that side, but he was concerned it might be too bumpy for our comfort; fortunately, the air around us played nice.

I felt like a bit of a broken record, saying “woooow!” every time something new came into view. The conditions really seemed perfect — the afternoon light played on the Pacific Ocean and tufts of cloud floated around the mountain peaks to make them just that little bit more scenic (as if they weren’t enough already)! Further down the valleys, you could see the heavy cloud that so often coats the West Coast, but it was far enough down we could still see the glaciers.

The glaciers were something to truly marvel at, with all of the cracks and bright blue crevasses. We couldn’t get as close to them as you would in a helicopter, but I was fine with that — my view meant that I could see the details on the glaciers and a lot more!

It was such a clear day that, as well as seeing New Zealand’s two highest peaks in Mount Cook/Aoraki and Mount Tasman, we could also see as far south as Mount Aspiring in Wanaka.

The tall peaks were incredibly impressive. Snow was being lifted up and away from Mount Tasman in a plume. Mount Cook was imposing and covered in snow and rocky outcrops. I couldn’t imagine being one of the people that had conquered that peak — it all seemed much easier to just see it out of the window of an airplane!

All too soon, we had to head away from the Alps and back towards Tekapo. On the way, we flew over the Tasman Glacier, New Zealand’s largest glacier, and saw the little icebergs dotting the terminal lake (which I will be boating around tomorrow)! Then we were back over the Mackenzie Basin and again marveling at the colours, rivers, and lakes that dot the region before Isaac expertly landed the plane back at Tekapo Airport.

All in all, I believe we were up in the air for over 45 minutes. It was an absolutely fantastic flight and one I would get on again in a heartbeat. I had been a bit concerned about the bumpiness of the ride, but aside from the turbulence I’d mentioned, it was smooth and unconcerning. Plus, the views out the window are enough to take your mind off pretty much anything!

Air Safaris operate multiple flights daily out of Tekapo and Franz Josef Airports and have offices in these townships. The flight I did was the ‘Grand Traverse.’

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Instagram - Fox Glacier

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Day 2: White Morph Restaurant

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

The town of Kaikoura has a very unique location. It sits just to the north of the Kaikoura peninsula, which juts out five kilometers into the Pacific Ocean and is north of a massive underwater trench. The trench reaches up to 1300m deep and attracts a huge amount of sea life, from the very tiny all the way up to sperm whales and orcas, and the prevailing currents bring this sea life closer to the surface around the peninsula. This means there is an abundance of seafood ready to be caught, especially crayfish — which is why the town’s name actually means “meal of crayfish” in Maori.

All of this explains why I was excited about my dinner at White Morph, one of Kaikoura’s top seafood restaurants, especially since it was my last night in town and I hadn’t yet tried any seafood!

The restaurant is very classy. There was quiet music (except for the one time that a waitress leaned on the volume button), the lighting was dim, and there were candles on all of the tables. The service was very quick and my waiter was very friendly and quite helpful with explaining different options on the menu. I didn’t spend much time considering other options before choosing a starter and a main that amounted to a seafood feast (although sadly, the crayfish, starting at $65, was out of my price range).

To say I was happy when my starter arrived is an understatement. It was a heaping pile of Marlborough green-lipped mussels, presumably fresh from the sounds. They were served in a chili and white wine sauce which added just the right amount of flavour without being overwhelming. I finished the entire plate and then wondered how I was going to somehow fit in my main!

That main was a citrus marinated Akaroa salmon with veggies and a beautiful Romesco sauce. It was just the right size after having a huge starter, and I thought it was very tasty. I wasn’t as big a fan of the wine — a local chardonnay from Kaikoura’s Papatea winery. It was just a bit too tart — I much prefer a smoother wine. Maybe I shouldn’t have ordered a chardonnay in that case, but I wanted to try something as local as possible!

I would definitely go back to White Morph if I got the chance. I’d even be tempted to have the same seafood feast all over again because it was delicious and fresh — exactly what you would hope for from a restaurant sitting across the road from the sea.

White Morph is located at 94 Esplanade, Kaikoura. They are open for dinner 7 days a week from 5.30pm.

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Day 2: stay at Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

As I write this post, the sun is coming up over the Pacific Ocean and bringing an absolutely stunning day to Kaikoura. The clouds have completely cleared so, from my viewpoint on the balcony, I finally get to the see the amazing view these apartments were designed to point towards.

Even though I haven’t spent a lot of time in my apartment at the Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments, I’ve thoroughly enjoyed my time here. For one, you really can’t beat the view. There’s plenty of places where you can see the snowcapped Seaward Kaikoura Ranges in Kaikoura, but it was so convenient that I could take sunrise photos of them without leaving my room!

I love hearing the sound of the ocean as I fall asleep, and even with the door closed to keep the heat in, I could just hear the roar of the waves running through the black rocks of the beach. It was just enough to lull me into a peaceful sleep in the comfortable bed (which even had electric blankets on it in case the heater wasn’t quite enough).

One of my concerns about coming to New Zealand was making sure that I packed enough to be warm, but because of this heater, I didn’t have to worry about that in my apartment. I could crank the temperature up to whatever comfortable level I wanted while I sat on the couch and blogged.

The apartment was very nicely appointed and was a bit large for just me (given that it actually had a second bedroom with two single beds). It had SkyTV, a big sofa lounge, and a full kitchen as well, so it would be perfect for a couple or a family getaway.

And the balcony. Oh, the balcony. Probably my favourite place in the apartment. If it hadn’t been a bit nippy, I probably would have sat out there with my computer at night. I was even able to take a few night long exposure shots of the mountains by setting up my tripod there.

I had quite a few good chats with Graeme, one of the owners, particularly when I went down to refill my internet allowance (available as a secured network for $1/mb, purchasable in various increments). He was very interested to hear about my experiences in Kaikoura so far and we had a good chat that ranged from ocean fishing (which he enjoys) to how frustrating their Burmese cat can be (and being an owner of a rather difficult cat, I completely understood!).

I’ve mentioned the location a few times with regards to the mountains and the beach, but it’s also very convenient to activities in the area. It’s a short walk over to the encounter… complex, where you can eat at Cafe Encounter, swim with dolphins, or go on an a trip out into the ocean to find the local albatrosses. White Morph, one of the most highly recommended restaurants in Kaikoura, is just next door to this. A short drive will take you into the main street of town, or in the opposite direction, to the seal colony (although it would be hard to find a place in Kaikoura that isn’t a short drive from anywhere).

Overall, I had a great time here and felt very welcomed. If you are looking for a place to stay in Kaikoura, it would be hard to go wrong with the Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments.

The Kaikoura Waterfront Apartments are located at 126 Esplanade. Rooms can be booked through Wotif.com.

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