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    • Day 1: arrival in Christchurch
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    • Day 4: Thrillseekers Rafting
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    • Day 5: An accidental drive through Christchurch
    • Day 6: Attempting to swim with Dolphins
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    • Day 7: Air Safaris – Grand Traverse Flight
    • Day 7: The Giant Jersey & the Medieval Mosaic
    • Day 7: A Quick Stop in Geraldine
    • Day 7: Earth & Sky Tour
    • Day 8: Glacier Explorers
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    • Day 9: The Inland Scenic Route
    • Looking back on my time in Canterbury
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Browsing Tags Sperm whale

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Looking back on my time in Canterbury

May 14, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

It’s hard to put into words my thoughts on the nine days I spent in Canterbury, New Zealand. Never before have I had such a jam-packed travel schedule where I’ve been able to experience so much about a location in a short period of time. And if you hadn’t guessed it from my other blog posts — I loved it. Yes, it was so busy that sometimes I didn’t have a chance to think, but it was one of the best trips I’ve ever had.

My itinerary made me truly appreciate the diversity of Canterbury. It’s not just Christchurch and the Canterbury Plains. It’s much larger than that, stretching from the blue Pacific to the golden hills of the Mackenzie Basin. Everywhere you look there are mountains, some snowcapped, some that men dream about conquering. It’s such a scenic place that I took over 3600 photos in the span of nine days!

Thrillseekers Rafting

Pegasus Bay Winery

Canterbury offers such a wide array of experiences as well. The adventurous will find plenty to sate their daredevil appetites –perhaps with a rafting trip down the Waiau followed by a bungee jump above it. However, there’s plenty for those looking for a slightly calmer time as well — it’d be hard to pass on wine tasting in the Waipara followed by a relaxing soak in the hot pools at Hanmer Springs.

Speaking of diversity, I tried so many different foods while in Canterbury that my stomach must have thought it had died and gone to heaven. Mexican, French, Asian, steak, lamb, seafood, fudge…you name it, I probably ate it. It was all delicious, and I’m going to struggle trying to find any meal better than the duck a l’orange I had in Akaroa.

And who can forget the wildlife? In just over a week, I was lucky enough to see three sperm whales, a pod of 200 dusky dolphins, many swooping albatrosses (and some other sea birds too), some fighting eels, many small pods of very endangered Hector’s dolphins, baby New Zealand fur seals frolicking in rock pools, eighty little penguins having a happy hour in the middle of Flea Bay, and a sheep in a hi-vis vest. Had I stayed longer in Mount Cook, I might have been lucky enough to see a cheeky kea — although perhaps only seeing a stained glass version was a bit safer, given their destructive curiosity!

None of these experiences would have been the same — or in some cases, they wouldn’t have been possible at all — without the people of Canterbury. I met so many interesting, friendly, and helpful people along the way — both fellow travellers and locals. Maurice’s Maori Tour in Kaikoura was truly a standout in this respect, because I felt like I learned more about Maori culture and the local people in a few hours than I’d ever known before. Elsewhere in Canterbury, I got a chance to sit down and chat with hotel owners, tour guides, and restaurant chefs about anything and everything New Zealand (with the obligatory questions about my braced knee thrown in). I heard so many interesting stories and got some great tips to help me along as well. With so many people to chat to, I never felt alone.

Which place had the best combination of all of these things? Which was my absolute favourite? It’s such a hard choice…but if I had to pick one, and only one, I would choose Tekapo. It’s such a spectacularly scenic place, but to top it off, some of the experiences I had there were mind-boggling. I’d been admiring mountains on every leg of my trip, but on the Grand Traverse flight, I got to look down on them, watching as the snow blew off their peaks. And everywhere I went, I’d been gazing at the stars, loving how many I could see compared to home, but in Tekapo, I got to see them in a whole new way — from the observatory. In no way did I ever think that I would see Saturn — rings, moons, and all — while I was in NZ!

That said, every place I visited — Kaikoura, the Waipara, Hanmer Springs, Akaroa, Geraldine, Tekapo, and Mount Cook — had its own charm. I genuinely enjoyed visiting all of them, and I often found it very difficult to leave. If I ever got the chance, I would pay each and every place a return visit. I’d love to go back and do some of the things that couldn’t possibly fit into my very full itinerary, but I’d also be happy trying some of the same things again (especially dolphin swimming — hopefully I’d actually be able to get into the water if I went again!).

So, even though it all seems like a faraway dream — something that must have happened to another person, even though I have the pictures and writing to prove it was me — it was such a good dream. It reaffirmed how much I love New Zealand and proved to me that Canterbury should always have a starring place on a South Island itinerary.

I’d like to thank Wotif.com and Canterbury Tourism for all the hard work they put into planning my Canterbury Tiki Tour. They helped me with any questions I may have had along the way and were generally just awesome! 

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Day 2: Whale Watch Kaikoura

April 12, 2012 · Wot Blog by Kristin Repsher

Today got off to a very inauspicious start when I found out that a low mist had enveloped Kaikoura overnight, which caused all early-morning whale watches to be cancelled. This meant that, while I was eating a hearty bacon & egg breakfast at Flukes Cafe, I was trying to mentally work out if a later whale watch would fit into my schedule for the day. However, this concern turned out to be for naught when I realised I was working off the wrong version of the schedule — turns out my whale watch wasn’t until 1.15pm anyway!

By the time 1.15 rolled around, the clouds were still low over the mountains but it was all blue sky and sunshine at the beachside area where Whale Watch Kaikoura is based. After a short safety briefing, we all loaded up into a bus for a drive to the other side of the Kaikoura peninsula, where we met our home for the next few hours — the catamaran Paikea. Those who have seen the film Whale Rider may recognise this name because Paikea is the whale rider; according to Maori myth, after the canoe he was riding in sunk, he grabbed ahold of a whale who took him all the way south to New Zealand.

Paikea must have been a lot better at handling seasickness than the people n board his namesake, because a few faces started to turn a bit green as soonas we headed out into the 1.5m swell. We were told that we were lucky because the whales seen earlier in the day were only six miles from shore, but that six miles was quite unsettling to some (including me). However, once they announced that a sperm whale was visible on the port side, I did my best to forget it and herded outside.

Whale Watch Kaikoura’s boats are quite well designed, in that there never seemed to be anyone clambering for space in front of other people. Everyone stood single file along the side of the vessel (and on top) and admired the giant of the sea as he caught his breath. As we learned from the talk on the way out, sperm whales only stay on the surface for between 5-10 minutes before they do a deep dive and disappear for up to an hour, and we caught this one at the end of his trip to the surface. This means we only had a minute or two before he took one final breath and dove, giving us a great view of his tail as he gracefully disappeared beneath the water (and I really liked that about the sperm whale — unlike the humpback, if you see a sperm whale here, you’re almost guaranteed to see his tail).

We were lucky enough to spot two other whales, both of which had only just come to the surface when we reached them. One was Tiaki, a very large whale and a very well-known one around Kaikoura. Both happily hung out at the surface, giving us nice blow photos (or at least, you think they’re nice until you realise you’re taking photos of whale snot) before eventually disappearing back into Kaikoura Canyon again. I’ve seen whales a few times now in Queensland, but I still just stand in awe at how truly large some creatures are (and how graceful they are in spite of it!).

Kaikoura Canyon is what makes this area home to such a rich population of sea life. Not far from the shore of the peninsula, the ocean drops to over 1300m deep, creating a trench full of nutrients that the smallest sea life lives on. Because they flourish, so do the larger animals that hunt them, thus the presence of animals like the sperm whale and the orca.

After seeing the three whales, our captain took us closer to shore in an attempt to find other sea and bird life to entertain us with. It didn’t take long — we very quickly came across a flock of sea birds floating in the swell. These included a few shy albatrosses and a Westland petrel. Then we hit the jackpot when we came upon a small pod of dusky dolphins who frolicked in front of our bow as we moved slowly along. When we moved a bit to the north, we found ourselves smack in the middle of a pod of 200 dolphins. All around us they were splashing, spinning in circles around one another under the water, and doing flips for our entertainment. They were happy and showing it, and in turn, we were happy.

Eventually, we turned back to shore, and while I was sad to leave the dolphins and whales behind, my stomach was certainly very happy to be back on dry land. But even if it meant another bout of near-seasickness, would I go out with Whale Watch Kaikoura again? In a heartbeat.

Whale Watch Kaikoura is located at The Whaleway Station, Whaleway Road, near the Kaikoura train station. Whale watch tours are available from $145 ($60 for children). Up to 7 tours depart daily.

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